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Rich history of Castello di Volpaia

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico (Photograph supplied)

Let me apologise for suggesting in last week’s article that a barbaresco would still be good in 3035 — a time we well might be enjoying wine on a “Goldilocks” (not too hot, not too cold) planet orbiting Tau Ceti in the constellation Cetus. It should have read 2035.

I introduce myself and my wife to the young lady sitting next to us at a New York Wine Experience dinner.

“I am Federica,” she replies, and when I find out that her mother and father are Carlo and Giovannella Mascheroni of Castello di Volpaia, I am so happy to reconnect with a property I was involved with in another life many, many years ago. I have fond memories of their lovely wines.

Castello di Volpaia, built in the 11th century as a fortified village, is one of the best preserved properties of that period, although only part of the original protective walls and two of the six towers are still standing.

In 1250, Volpaia was a founding member of the Chianti League with their gallo nero, or black rooster, emblem that appears on all bottles produced by this group.

Lorenzo della Volpaia (1446-1512) an architect, goldsmith, mathematician and clockmaker, founded a Florentine dynasty of clockmakers and scientific instrument makers. He was a friend of Leonardo da Vinci and even helped to decide where the statue David should reside. Their family instruments are on display in museums in Florence, Chicago and Greenwich. Today, one publication says: “Volpaia is the touchstone by which all other Tuscan wines are judged.”

The 914 acres of property (our Paget parish is 1,500) are divided as such: 114 of organically farmed vineyards, 40 of olive trees; the rest is the walled village, villas and forest.

Each year more than 10,000 people visit Volpaia’s cellars that were rated by the Wall Street Journal as a top place to visit in Italy. You can stay there in guest accommodations on this quite vast estate. Their wine shop is in a tower that in a previous incarnation was the village jail. Even though it will be a business trip, I may manage to enjoy myself while visiting Volpaia in April!

We have just received three wines from Volpaia. Their Chianti Classico 2013 DOCG scored 91/100 and was the editor’s choice in Wine Enthusiast: “A delicious expression of 90 per cent sangiovese and 10 per cent merlot that opens with enticing aromas of fragrant purple flower, ripe red berry and sweet baking spice. The silky, vibrant palate doles out juicy wild cherry, black raspberry, clove and liquorice, while sleek tannins and bright acidity provide the framework. A tobacco note signals the close.” $20.40.

Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Reserva DOCG had this said about it by critic Antonio Galloni: “Impeccable in this vintage with terrific focus to balance the overt fruit of the vintage. Dark red cherry, plum, smoke, mint and sweet spices are all woven together in a flashy, mid-weight reserve that should continue to drink well for at least a handful of years, perhaps beyond. Crushed flowers and a hint of rose petal add the final shades of nuance.”

This wine, from not only one of Italy’s oldest estates but also on our planet, is made from 100 per cent Sangiovese grapes. $29.35.

One of the earliest Super Tuscans to be recognised by the international press was a blend of Sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon from a vineyard on their property called Balifico that is nestled between two others called Coltassala and Casanova. The 2012 is a vivid ruby colour with a dark purple fringe. The nose is fine and elegant with a scent of blackberry and blueberry combined with a trace of cinnamon. It is smooth and round with a lasting aftertaste of red fruits. Castello di Volpaia Balifico 2012 sells for $41.50.

These wines, which arrived this month, are being reintroduced to our island home for the first time in more than 20 years.

This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm