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A perfect lobster pairing

Bouchard Pere et Fils in Burgundy (Photograph supplied)

When I was a teenager, I would jump off the rocks with a spear and nab a couple of lobsters.

Of course, this is not a choice today and lobsters are now a rare treat on a retired wine merchant’s budget. However, as I write this morning, I have just returned home with two that are my first purchase – and I would suspect the last – for this season that wraps up shortly.

Only the finest chardonnay is an acceptable accompaniment and I am chilling an appropriate bottle of 2019 Beringer Private Reserve Chardonnay. This well-balanced, luscious chardonnay is classically Californian with aromas of citrus blossom, lemon curd, honeysuckle, and crème brûlée, supported by flavours of tropical fruits such as pineapple, mango, and tangerine. A delicate touch of well-integrated oak shows notes of brioche and apple pie spice, leading to a pleasing, mouth-watering, lengthy finish.

Critic Jeb Dunnuck puts it this way: “The 2019 Chardonnay Private Reserve is certainly the richest and most opulent of the whites here, although it shows a fresher, less oaky, toasty character than older vintages (which I think is what they’re looking for). Impressive stone fruits, white flowers, orange blossom, toasted almond, and a touch of minerality all define the bouquet, and this beauty builds nicely, offering full-bodied richness, a layered, opulent texture, terrific balance, and a great finish. 94/100.” $62 (Stock #6277).

Although many white burgundies would be appropriate, when I think of lobster it is meursault that comes to mind first with its buttery creaminess. We list seven. Even though white burgundy is quite expensive, because of the worldwide demand, we have found it necessary to add another producer to our list as our traditional suppliers are sometimes out of stock.

Our 2019 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault 1er Cru Le Porusot, from a winery founded in 1731, is new for us. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate evaluates it this way: “From a parcel amounting to nearly 60 acres, Bouchard's 2019 Meursault 1er Cru Les Porusot offers up notes of citrus oil, white flowers, wheat toast and fresh peach. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with lively acids and a bright, saline finish, this is a controlled rendition of a site that can often produce rather rich wines.” $108 (Stock #8228).

The 2020 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault can source fruit from anywhere in the appellation and this is reflected in the price of $50.10. It has a very aromatic nose, with fruit and floral notes. Just as perfumed on the palate, it expresses its richness and fullness without the slightest heaviness. (Stock #8230).

What better match could you possibly get than local lobster and a meursault made by a member of an old Bermuda family? David Butterfield’s winery is very close to the town of Meursault in the Côte de Beaune and although he makes quite a range of reds and whites, I think it fair for me to say that meursault is his first love. In fact, when I first met David, it was his meursault that we shared before any other wine. I was sold! His 2018 Butterfield Meursault exhibits bright aromas of citrus and honey along with some smokiness from the oak barrels. There is butter and mineral and palate-cleansing acidity. Sounds like a natural marriage with the melted butter and lemon juice on my crustation. $76 (Stock #5811). We also have the 2020 for $86 but I prefer the older for now as fine burgundy ages so well.

For many, many years Burrows Lightbourn have represented the firm of Joseph Drouhin that today farms all its vineyards using organic and biodynamic principles in France, as well as their outpost in Oregon.

At first sight, the 2018 Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes is a perfect illustration of its place name. It is worthy of a wonderful meursault whose colour is golden without being yellow. The nose, concentrated and elegant, full without being heady, evokes aromas of almond, warm bread just taken out of the oven, hot croissant, then fine spice and, finally, grilled dried fruit. The flavours are at the same refined level as the aromas. The body is round without being heavy; the acidity is well integrated and is never biting. The texture feels like silk without the alcohol ever being dominant. The wine develops on the palate and opens up fully until the very long aftertaste brings back some of the precious aromas felt in the bouquet: almond paste and hot brioche. $110 (Stock #8179).

The name Remoissenet stands for refined, classic burgundy wines. A leading light in Beaune for generations, this 150-year-old estate is now more than ever the definitive source for the finest wines, that are a combination of fruit from estate-owned vines in the village of Meursault, farmed biodynamically, and selected (purchased) must (juice). Soils combine pure limestone to the north of the village, with more clay and marl to the south. Grapes are hand-harvested, pressed full cluster, and fermented on indigenous yeasts.

Their 2020 Remoissenet Meursault gives us aromas of lemons, white fruit and apricots followed by light nutty notes. Medium-bodied with good acid and texture. $92 (Stock #5915).

My astute wife has always claimed that I prepare the finest Bermuda lobster that she has ever tasted. Although I am far too modest to make such an assertion, I will not choose to contradict her! Our dinner table tonight should be a time of great joy. I certainly hope that you also can have such an evening and please do not chill such fine wines lower than 55F or 13C as their beauty will be masked.

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm

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Published March 03, 2023 at 7:58 am (Updated March 03, 2023 at 7:23 am)

A perfect lobster pairing

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