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A journey into the unknown

At El Enemigo, wine is aged in the concrete fermenting tanks pictured

I know that I have recently written about a long overdue visit by our oldest son and a couple of weeks of very fine food and wine, but how could I ignore three wonderful reasons to celebrate on Father’s Day?

Another occasion to mark was a day in June when I asked someone that I had known for less than a handful of days to come to my island and spend the rest of her life with me – 46 years and counting!

Of course, we enjoyed many Côtes-du-Rhône wines but 2019 Chateau Pégau Cuvée Maclura Côtes-du-Rhone, which led off the weekend, was a new one for us. After tasting it and being shocked by the price – only $19.95 – my wife advised me to buy a case of it. This wine from iconic producer of Chateauneuf du Pape fame, Laurence Féraud, is made up of 60 per cent grenache, 25 per cent syrah, 10 per cent mourvèdre and 5 per cent cinsault that show vintage and terroir to beautiful effect with warm ripe fruit, spice, and earthy nuances.

Critic James Suckling backs our impression up with a wonderful 93/100 rating and says: “The full range of exciting Southern Rhone aromas, from graphite to raw meat to black cherry, pour from the glass of this youthful wine. Concentrated and well structured, but already so accessible, thanks to the well-crafted, fine tannins, this is a standout wine in the humble category. Long, supple finish with savoury and spicy notes.”

The Wine Spectator opined, “A big-boned version, with warm fig, sappy black fruit and liquorice flavours cascading across the palate. The firm tannins are just beginning to release layers of brooding, fruity, herbal mineral notes. For fans of the riper style. Drink now through 2025.” (Stock #7094).

One could say that we overdid it on the Saturday evening when we uncorked, to enjoy with pizza and salad, a bottle of 2019 Penfolds Bin 8 Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon from South Australia. This 175-year-old winery, which is considered today to be among the very finest in our world, first produced their renowned bin series in 1959. Their Bin 8 appeared in 2003 and we had never tasted it before. I initially was bowled over by its warmth, superb balance, and friendliness. Dark cherry and cake fruits were followed by spice, plums, and even roast meat aromas. This is an opulent and very classy blend of 60 per cent shiraz and 40 per cent cabernet sauvignon.

I think that the critic for Decanter magazine felt the same when they wrote, “Richly perfumed blackberry and blueberry with discreet sweet oak vanilla, thanks to 10 months of ageing in French and American oak. The 14.5 per cent alcohol is hardly detectable thanks to the great concentration of dark cherry and cassis, spiced with cinnamon, clove and tobacco leaves. A full-body blend of shiraz and cabernet sauvignon, it's smoothly textured with fresh acidity (6.4g/l) providing a lift. Ripe dark fruits linger on the long finish.” $48 (Stock #7264).

As I write this, on Sunday morning, we opened and had a small taste of two new whites (for us anyway) and we must decide which will accompany the rather rich seafood dinner planned for tonight. The winemaker of the first has been called the Elvis Presley of winemaking and the Lionel Messi of this trade – heavens, even a wine beast. I refer to Alejandro Vigil, who has been instrumental in guaranteeing and not only assuring that Bodega Catena sits in the top spot in his country, but also that the wines of Argentina are held in such high regard worldwide.

For 2020 El Enemigo Chardonnay he has teamed up with historian and vintner Adrianna Catena. They call their wines The Enemy (El Enemigo) and say on their label: “At the end of the journey, we remember only one battle: The one we fought against ourselves, the one that defines us.” So, what does this master of malbec and chardonnay give us? My wife is – unusual for her – a little unsure of what it is, but the Wine Spectator’s opinion that it “shows viognier-like florals of gardenia and honeysuckle”, helps explain this.

I am also a tad confused but have read that “this impressive white was made with a little flor, just like a fino sherry”. This briny touch was unexpected, but overall, it is very fine, in fact James Suckling comments: “This has aromas of ripe apricots, buttercream, baked apples and pastries. Medium-to full-bodied with a creamy, round, and almost oily texture. Lovely balance of ripe fruit and toasted-pastry notes with bright acidity. Delicious finish. Fantastic value, as always. Drink now or hold. 96/100.” $34 (Stock #7129).

A small taste of 2020 Remoissenet Père & Fils Santenay is to be considered as well. Before you think that I am losing it, let me explain that this is not their pinot noir, but a rare bottle of chardonnay, the likes of which I have never had. This accounts for only 5 per cent of the total production from the small spa town of Santenay that is the most southern in the Côte de Beaune of Burgundy. I admit to never having seen white wine from there and I am not sure what to expect.

I have read that the grapes were hand-harvested, pressed full cluster and fermented on indigenous yeasts in French oak and then aged in the same barrels. It should be “my kind of wine”. It sure is! White flowers, fresh nuts, crushed stones, and an enveloping feeling of plushness enhanced by lemon. So refined, so lovely! So rare. We may pour these whites side by side for dinner. $49 (Stock #7514).

Tomorrow evening the plan is to have pork ribs cooked slowly for hours, and I do have a bottle on standby that I have enjoyed once before and consider it a wonderful treat. I refer to 2020 Mount Peak Winery Rattlesnake Sonoma County Zinfandel. Crafted from carefully selected grapes, this zinfandel is a true representation of the unique terroir of the Monte Rosso Vineyard. The rattlesnakes living among the vines add a sense of adventure and excitement to the experience of drinking it. The bold and powerful flavours are a tribute to the Rattlesnake Hill crest in this historic plot of land planted in 1886. This wine is not for the faint of heart, with intense layers of black cherry, raspberry, liquorice, and Sichuan pepper. It is worth the $79 price tag as it shows what heights “America’s grape” can soar to. (Stock #6664).

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available at www.wineonline.bm

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Published June 23, 2023 at 7:59 am (Updated June 23, 2023 at 7:17 am)

A journey into the unknown

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