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All about vine age

Old growth: very old vines at the Monte Rosso Vineyard. Rattlesnake Zinfandel is a tribute to the crest called Rattlesnake Hill, the highest point of the Monte Rosso Vineyard in Sonoma

November 16 is National Zinfandel Day, so here is its story. Usually, vineyards are replanted in sections about every 25 to 30 years, as vines produce less fruit after that age and are not as commercially viable.

Let me share a story with you that explains why there are numerous “old vine” Zinfandels.

One day, many years ago, my wife and I were driving through Lake County in California with our friend Jedidiah Tecumseh Steele, a highly respected winemaker.

He points to a field of very gnarly old Zinfandel vines and tells us that they were planted one hundred and twenty-five years ago.

Their root systems are deep and extensive and share all the goodness of the earth with possibly a quarter of the grapes that they once produced – thus very complex and intense fruit.

Jed explains that Zinfandel survived the years of prohibition when many vineyards were uprooted to plant walnuts and other crops, and it even thrived! How could this be?

During this period the law allowed households to make a limited amount of wine for their own enjoyment.

The thick-skinned Zinfandel fruit was ideal for shipping by rail to the large East Coast and Midwest cities and it was the grape to have as it did not break and start to ferment in the box cars.

$24.30 is the price you pay for 2019 Bogle “Old Vine” Zinfandel that is sourced from some of their longtime growing partners in Lodi and Amador Counties, these head trained, and dry farmed vines range from 40 to 60 years old and produce low yields of highly concentrated and complex fruit.

It bursts from the glass with aromas of raspberries and pink peppercorns. Cranberries mix well with brambly berries, creating dense fruit flavours framed by pipe tobacco leaf and cedar. Pizza or mostly anything from the grill would work well with this. Stock #8042.

This is a blurb from the producers of 2019 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Zinfandel. “First coined by Dry Creek Vineyard in 1987, the term “Old Vine” has special meaning to our family winery. Although there is no legal definition, we define an old vine vineyard as having vines that average more than 50 years in age.

“For this bottling of our Old Vine Zinfandel, the vines average more than 100 years in age and in some cases, nearly 140 years old! Old Vine Zinfandel vineyards remain the most prized and historic of all plantings in the Dry Creek Valley”.

I believe that Bermuda was the very first overseas customer that Dry Creek exported to and personally my wife and I still have a few precious bottles from the 1970s. $42.00. Stock #6539.

Again, let the winery tell their story about 2020 Dry Creek Vineyard “Heritage Clone” Old Vine Zinfandel. “The development of the Heritage Clone was initiated in 1982 to preserve the tradition and “heritage” of old Zinfandel vineyards. Cuttings from a pre-Prohibition era vineyard were grafted onto phylloxera-resistant rootstock.

“Then, for several years we worked diligently to screen and propagate virus-free vines that would ultimately produce a crop. Finally, in 1997 the process concluded with a ‘young vine’ wine with ‘old vine’ Zinfandel characteristics, reminiscent of turn of the century heirloom vines.” Pretty clever and 93 points from the Wine Enthusiast magazine. $34.95. Stock #6507.

I do not know the age of the vines, but in this case the wine itself has reached an age that I really enjoy and appreciate, and I also like the Bermuda connection from Huw and Dale Morris who lived here for many years.

The 2012 Wild Hogge “Moongate” is a red blend from Paso Robles that consists of 75% Primitivo (Italian for Zinfandel), 12.5% Cabernet Franc and 12.5% Syrah. The Cab Franc adds a little black pepper, and the spicy Syrah balances out the richness of the Primitivo. It was matured in American oak for two years and only 177 cases were produced. $39.90. Stock #5967.

When I first tried 2020 Mount Peak Rattlesnake Zinfandel I was truly bowled over by its beauty, and at 95/100 from James Suckling and the Wine Enthusiast, it appears that they were as well.

Rattlesnake Zinfandel is a tribute to the crest called Rattlesnake Hill, the highest point of the Monte Rosso Vineyard in Sonoma. It's famous for the rattlesnakes living among the vines, seeking sunshine by day and coiling around the vines at night.

This Zinfandel is bold and boisterous, with intense layers of black cherry, raspberry, liquorice and Sichuan pepper. Vanilla and graham cracker undertones linger on the long finish. I cannot vouch for the vine age, but I understand that some of the original Zinfandel vines, planted in 1886, are still producing fruit. $79.00. Stock #6664.

There is quite a story behind 2020 Orin Swift “8 Years in the Desert” Red Blend and it all began when David Phinney, of Orin Swift, sold a very successful wine brand that he had developed. We’ll let him explain his eight-year agreement.

“Being stranded in a desert leaves a lot to be desired – how to get back home, where to find food, water and shelter, and thoughts of survival. For eight years in the early 2010s, Orin Swift Cellars was barred from making any Zinfandel wines.

“From the grape that started everything OSC, the ‘desert’ gave us an opportunity to explore the diverse range of California’s grape varietals. But, as soon as those eight years were up, we had a plan in place to pay homage to our home”.

Their winemaker notes read as follows. “Bright violet in the glass, the 2020 8 Years in the Desert is the epitome of our style, the reason we are even here in the first place.

“As it’s being poured, the aromatics hit squarely on the nose with a perception of sweetness: pure brambly raspberry juice and blueberry with a hint of white pepper and High Sierra forest floor.

“Yet, the perceived sweetness on the nose is just that, perceived, and doesn’t carry through to the palate.

“Lush and enveloping with a beam of acidity, notes of blackberry pie, plum and kirsch flourish. Ultra -round tannins and lingering raspberry, the wine finishes in slow-motion. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Syrah.” $65.00. Stock #6651.

Please take time to Zin, you will love it!

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn stores are located in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are located in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of its wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm

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Published November 10, 2023 at 7:59 am (Updated November 10, 2023 at 7:25 am)

All about vine age

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