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A few answers about sparkling wines

Grand manor house: the Champagne Devaux manoir in Villeneuve near Bar-sur-Seine. A rare 17th-century dovecote, is classified on the French supplementary historic monument list (Photograph courtesy of Champagne Devaux)

One of the questions that I have been asked the most frequently is, “can you please suggest a good bottle of Champagne?” I have usually replied that all Champagne should be good, due to the very strict and detailed laws that control its production, but I also admit that some are “more good” than others.

May I ask that you remove the cork from any sparkling wine slowly and carefully, so that you only hear a quiet pfft — rather than a bang.

Champagne, or similar wines made individually in each bottle, can contain about fifty million bubbles and a violent opening can dissipate them too quickly.

Also, as corks can launch at speeds up to 64mph, careless removal could result in injury to a friend.

The Charmat method, invented by a Frenchman, uses a large, sealed pressure tank, rather than individual bottles to ferment the wine in. Each bottle is then filled from this source.

This way is far less labour intensive, but the bubbles are not as tiny, persistent, or delicate. The very popular Prosecco is a good example of this system in action.

Today, I will suggest three Charmat method offerings and three Champagnes.

For many years Bird in Hand Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé, from the Adelaide Hills in Australia, has been a favourite in Bermuda, in fact I have often said that if you do not like Pinot Noir, Australian wine, or even bubblies, you should try this and learn to love all three.

Decanter magazine writes’ “this easy-drinking and fruit-forward Aussie sparkling wine is predominantly Pinot Noir, from cool-climate sites across South Australia. It's a pretty rose-pink colour in the glass, with some rose petal florality on the nose. But it's mainly strawberries and cream that comes through when you swirl and sip, with a hint of pear drop, and a suggestion of residual sugar. Medium acidity, ripe and soft”.

This Charmat offering sells for $26.95. Stock #6088.

Now to the hills of Valdobbiadene, just north of Venice, where Santa Margherita grows luscious and aromatic Glera grapes to produce their Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore DOCG.

This classification, that is relatively rare, was first introduced in Italy in 1980.

DOC stands for adherence to the government rules that must be followed for fine wine production.

The “G” added in 1980, is an additional guarantee of quality, and these wines must be tasted by a government panel each year and be judged to be of a quality to represent their classification.

In September of last year, Canadian critic Natalie MacLean awarded this wine 92/100 and wrote, “white melon and white peach aromas and flavours on this crisp Italian sparkling wine, with good acidity and yet also a creamy softness. Pair with soft cheeses”.

She added that it was scrumptious with seafood. $24.15. Stock #8895.

If you have a slightly sweet tooth but do want to start the new year with a few bubbles, then you should give Veuve du Vernay ‘Ice’ Rosé a try.

It is crafted to be enjoyed over ice and is fresh and delicate on the nose, revealing pronounced fruity scents and raspberry aromas with its enticing Demi-Sec finish.

Well-balanced and pleasant, it can be enjoyed as an aperitif, in cocktails or with desserts. $19.40. Stock #7301.

Of course, today the wines from a small, cool, northern area of France called Champagne are considered benchmarks in the bubbly category.

A few hundred years ago they were light red, still, and made from Pinot Noir.

The story I tend to believe is that some was placed in a cool, winter cellar and the wine had been put in the bottle before finishing the process of fermentation.

In the Spring some were opened and trapped bubbles were discovered – the rest is history. Today the grapes allowed are Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Devaux ‘Augusta’ Brut Champagne Non-Vintage honours the wife of the founder, as after his death in 1879 she took over the responsibilities and ran the winery for sixteen years.

Despite the relatively bargain price of $42.00, it rates a very credible 91/100 from James Suckling.

I can also add that in 2020 their cellarmaster, Michel Parisot, was awarded the International Wine Challenge “Winemaker of the Year Award”.

Its floral nose is complemented by ripe fruity notes of white peach and apricot and there is power and finesse on the finish. Stock #7010.

Why not do as the French do and enjoy a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte Reserve Exclusive Rosé Non-Vintage Champagne?

Even though this brand was only established a year after I entered the wine trade, and even though Nicolas only died very recently, it has become the most asked for in all in France!

This Rosé is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 45% Pinot Meunier and 10% Chardonnay. It is elegant, harmonious and fruity with a nose that is powerful with red fruit. $49.95. Stock #7007.

In 1998 Laurent-Perrier became the first and only Champagne house to receive the Royal Warrant from a gentleman who has quite recently taken over the responsibilities for a job that his mother handled brilliantly for over seventy years.

This is a great honour for the firm that gives us Laurent-Perrier La Cuvée Brut Non-Vintage Champagne that has a relatively high percentage of Chardonnay at 50%.

They feel that it represents today’s taste preference with its creamy finesse. This is also enhanced by the addition of older reserve wines and their toasty character.

This would be an elegant way to say goodbye to 2023 and fervently hope for a peaceful 2024! $65.95. Stock #7153.

My very best wishes and a sincere thank you for reading this weekly effort of mine.

One last little tidbit. A silver teaspoon placed in sparkling wine will not extend the time of its effervescence!

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. The Burrows Lightbourn retail store is located in Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are located in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of its wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm

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Published December 29, 2023 at 7:59 am (Updated December 29, 2023 at 7:31 am)

A few answers about sparkling wines

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