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Old friends, wild pigs and wine

Surprising acidity and very sweet and pleasant tannins: Enemigo Mio wine from Casa Roja Winery and Vineyards, Spain (Photograph submitted)

At the time when you are reading this I may well be attending a seminar/tasting with Dale Morris and her daughter Sian. They will be visiting our Island where they lived with their husband/father, Huw Morris. Dr Morris was an anaesthesiologist at our hospital for many years, before they moved to Paso Robles in California and founded Wild Hogge wines. I first met Huw in the 1980s when he headed up the Bermuda Wine Circle.

The Morris family honour our history with a label that features a famous Winslow Homer watercolour, Bermuda Settlers, of wild hogs on our South Shore, and their foil top is embossed with a hog penny.

I understand that they will be hosting a wine dinner at Port O Call restaurant on January 18.

European wineries think of wild hogs, as they act in an extremely piggy way when they detect ripe, delicious grapes on the vine. Other very good friends, that I have also known for about forty years, are Maria and Neil Empson.

They are based in Milan, Italy, and many of the Italian wines that you will find with us are sourced from them.

Their own Super Tuscan “Cignale” means “wild boar” and it was these animals that ate most of their very first crop in 1983. Artist Maria drew six pictures of these animals that are featured on the labels.

Although I do not personally know the family that produced 2021 Casa Roja ‘Enemigo Mio’ Garnacha in Spain, I see that they feature a wild boar on their label, and I also know that these animals do consume Spanish grapes when they can get away with it!

What is “My Enemy” like? Well, the winery tells us that, its Enemigo Mio is a wine “of a beautiful cherry red colour with a not very intense layer. On the nose, the intense notes of youth stand out, of wild red fruits and liquorice, accompanied by details of scrub, balsamic, mentholated”.

“In the background, very light notes of toasted wood, elegant, subtle, always accompanying the fruit as the protagonist. Fresh notes of wild herbs and spices. On the palate it is a smooth wine, again very fresh and long, with surprising acidity and very sweet and pleasant tannins”.

Sounds well worth trying, and it only costs $25.00. Stock #9377. By the way, I understand that the very first wild hogs here were Spanish.

A shipment of 2018 Castello di Querceto ‘Cignale’ has just been put in stock. This blend of 90 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 per cent Merlot is always beautifully made and Neil has often mentioned to me that they selected this small plot of land due to its high nitrogen content that helps the fruit reach perfection.

Neil has travelled the world, but he always tells me that Bermuda, that he has visited often, holds a special place in his heart. So little Cignale is made, but I have been led to believe that in some years we have managed to secure up to 20 per cent of the total production.

Here is what Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, and then James Suckling have to say.

“94/100. A blend of 90 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 per cent Merlot, the Castello di Querceto 2018 Cignale ("wild boar" in Italian) offers beautiful depth and balance. This is a boldly layered Tuscan red that ages in French oak for 18 months. Sweet baking spice, dark chocolate and blackberry confit emerge from the core of this nicely concentrated red.

“94/100. Aromas of blackberries and liquorice with some sage and Tuscan rosemary follow through to a full body with integrated tannins that are polished and creamy. Lovely balance and length”. $59.90. Stock #9004

We have a sizeable shipment on the way from Wild Hogge, including their Cabernet Sauvignon that we are currently out of. I remember well the first time I tasted their very first release.

My wife and I were staying in Paso Robles for a few days and Huw arrived at our hotel with an unlabeled half bottle that he had drawn from a barrel, as it had yet to be placed in bottles.

He apologised and explained that it had not settled down yet. I told him that it was lovely and asked if he could spare a little more for us to take to a wine show in San Francisco, where I knew that Bermudian supermarket owners would be attending.

As the saying goes “the rest is history” and what lovely, exclusive to Bermuda and tiny production offerings they have supplied us with since then. Incidentally this first Cabernet won a gold medal.

The Wild Hogge web site tells us that, “perhaps what truly sets Pinot Noir apart is its ability to age gracefully. Patiently cellared, it evolves over time, transcending from fruit-forward exuberance to complex layers of tertiary notes. Its potential to mature and reveal hidden dimensions further adds to the mystique surrounding this captivating varietal”.

We actually have stocks of their 2013 Wild Hogge Pinot Noir and although I can find no reviews on it, I can share that this year was considered “classic” in Paso Robles and most of California.

The Wine Enthusiast did rate the 2012 Wild Hogge Pinot Noir 93/100 and they lamented the fact that it could only be bought in Bermuda! $34.60. Stock #5966.

2013 Wild Hogge “Tree Frog” Cabernet/Syrah can be found on Discovery Wine’s site with this comment from the Morris clan: “This unique blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon combines the best of Central Coast’s favourite varietals. The Syrah grapes come from a vineyard on the West side of Paso Robles and produced the best Syrah we have ever tasted – almost a crime to blend it! The grapes for the Cabernet Sauvignon come from two blocks of our neighbour’s vineyard; one high, west-facing and the other from the valley floor. Both were aged in 30 per cent new French oak barrels for 29 months before being blended.

“This dark, rich blend has an earthy quality balanced with a fruit forward nose. The Syrah (70 per cent) contributes a clove spice with soft tannins complimenting the Cabernet which adds structure to the blend”. $39.90. Stock #5897.

2012 Wild Hogge “Moongate” is one that I will have to let you figure out for yourself as I am running out of my allotted word count! Just believe me that it is a joy to enjoy, as I have done often. $39.90. Stock #5897.

Thankfully the only connection between my old friends and pigs is their mutual love of the finest grapes.

This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. The Burrows Lightbourn retail store is located Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm

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Published January 12, 2024 at 7:59 am (Updated January 12, 2024 at 7:20 am)

Old friends, wild pigs and wine

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