The Australian wine market at present is nothing short of sensational," remarks John Gay, chairman of Southcorp of the Americas who import Lindemans and Penfolds wines to Bermuda.

In the US, Australia surpasses France in volumes of wine sold and in a few months the Aussies may overtake Italy too, predicts Mr. Gay.

Here in Bermuda, most supermarkets stock mainly Californian and Italian wines, but Australian wines are beginning to catch up in popularity on the Island.

According to statistics for 2001, French and US wine consumption is on the decline, while Australian wine imports rose 14 percent between 1997 and 2001. "All because people like full flavoured, easy drinking wine," says Mr. Gay as he sips a glass of syrupy Penfolds "Koonunga Hill" 2001 Semillon /Chardonnay.

Chardonnay is the grape that most people associate with Australia, but Mr. Gay says that other varietals should not be overlooked: "They make some of the finest Riesling in the world.

"It's virtually unknown outside Australia and Semillon is the best white variety."

It's the red variety Shiraz, however, that Mr. Gay regards as the most important grape "down under".

Mr. Gay says he developed an affinity for wine through working in a liquor store while he was at college.

He eventually married a Napa Valley girl whose family were pioneers in the wine trade.

Since 1986, however, he has devoted himself to promoting the Australian wine regions.

One of the wonderful characteristics of the Penfold red wines is their balance, he remarks.

"Balance is the feature about red wine that makes it age well and make it such a good companion for food."

To showcase this compatibility, one of Mr. Gay's clients in Bermuda, Bristol Cellars, organised a special wine dinner last week at the Elbow Beach Hotel.

The event featured seven different Lindemans and Penfolds wines and provided a wonderful example of the pleasures of Australian food and wine.

Lindemans and Penfolds are the largest vineyard owners in Australia and own vineyards in all the significant wine regions in Australia, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Hunter Valley and McLaren Vale.

There are business advantages to having vineyards in so many diverse locations, says Mr. Gay.

It's such a huge country that you get different weather patterns and consequently different crops of grapes in various parts of Australia.

As a company, they are hedged against bad years in one area as well as providing opportunities for multi-regional blending. "It gives the wine maker wonderful options," he adds. Mr. Gay contends that Lindemans and Penfolds have not suffered from being part of a larger wine group.

He explains that the winemakers, a fairly independent breed, retain ultimate responsibility for the wines they produce.

"What we're always trying to do is create an individual style for each of our brands for each of wineries.

"It's possible because each individual wine maker is responsible for the quality and style of each of his wines from the vineyard to the bottle."

David Powell, chief executive of Bristol Cellars reveals that one of the Penfolds wines being served was judged by Wine Spectator magazine to be one of the great wines of Australia.

"Penfolds Grange is the only New World Wine that has been recognised as a competitor to Latour," says Mr. Powell.

On Saturday night, the 1997 vintage was paired with Australian lamb rack on roasted baby beets, wild Rosella relish and pepper berry jus.

A dish, well worthy of the $150 price tag per bottle.

Mr. Powell says that it is possible to get your hands on this wine in Bermuda, but there are probably only 16 cases on the Island.

If you could resist drinking it, it might prove to be a good investment., he adds. 1953 and 1955 vintages of the Penfolds Grange now fetch thousands of dollars at auction.

"These wines age gracefully," adds Mr. Gay.