"When I am tired and want comfort, when I want to share happiness, or when I want flavour, my first desire is soup."

Ten years ago, Barbara Kafka wrote that in her introduction to her wonderful and comprehensive book, "Soup: A Way of Life" (Artisan, 1998). She went on to describe soup as an "easy food, easy for the eater and easy for the cook." Perhaps that is why soup has been such a popular cookbook subject through the years.

Three new cookbooks to consider are: "Mollie Katzen's Recipes: Soups" by Mollie Katzen (Ten Speed Press, $14.95 spiral-bound); "Soup's On!" by Leslie Jonath and Frankie Frankeny (Chronicle, $19.95 paperback) and "Killer Chili" by Stephanie Anderson (Chronicle, $16.95 spiral-bound).

Katzen has been stirring pots of soup for more than 30 years, and her vegetarian recipes have appeared in one Moosewood cookbook after another. The recipe below, Swiss Cheese and Onion Soup, is one of many that appeared in the first edition of "Moosewood Cookbook" (1973).

Her "Soups" is an interesting little volume: spiral hardcover in a slipcase. It is designed to stand on a counter, easel-like, so that the individual recipes ¿ there are about 50 of them ¿ are readily displayed.

"Many of these soups, which feature a variety of vegetables and legumes, can be the centerpiece of a meal," Katzen says, "especially when served with rice or good bread and a light salad'."

She begins with Brazilian Black Bean Soup, which is "actually easier than the original," she notes, and then moves on to a variety of delectable and familiar favorites. Among our offerings are Cream of Asparagus, Fresh Corn Chowder, Curried Squash and Mushroom, Spicy Eggplant and Russian Cabbage Borscht.

In addition to the hot soups, there are seven cold offerings. Vichyssoise, Chilled Cantaloupe-Peach and Gazpacho are among them.

Even though Katzen is short on explanations, cooks will have no problem preparing — and enjoying — these recipes.

"Soup's On!" is a collection of favoured recipes from well-known chefs, cookbook authors, restaurant owners and other foodies. Recognisable names and their contribution to this volume include Charlie Trotter, Lentil and Bacon Soup; Deborah Madison, Silky Roasted Yellow Pepper Soup; Martin Yan, Crab and Asparagus Soup; Barbara Kafka, Curried Squash and Apple Soup; Jacques Pepin, Onion Soup Gratinee; Joan Nathan, Chicken Soup With Matzoh Balls; and Betty Rosbottom, Cream of Chicken and Fennel Soup.

This is not what you would consider a blockbuster of a cookbook, but it is nicely presented and easy to manage. Most of the recipes are as well. In other words, it could be a fun and valuable book in any kitchen.

Every time I see chili listed among the soups on a menu, which invariably it is these days, I always think it is misplaced because I view it as more substantial than soup. Just a glance through "Killer Chili" will convince you of that.

The 50 recipes have been contributed by as many restaurants in the United States and Canada. Beef certainly dominates, but here you also will find the main ingredient to be lobster, crab, chicken, turkey, catfish, bison and vegetables. All this gives diners reason to pause and wonder what's really in the chili they are about to eat.

Quite a few recipes claim to be "famous," "award-winning" or "world-class." You be the judge.

Mollie Katzen includes this recipe in her book.

SWISS CHEESE and ONION SOUP

2 tablespoons butter

2 medium onions, thinly sliced (about 4 cups)

1 to 2 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 ½ teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons dry mustard

1 to 3 tablespoons flour (depending on how thick you like your soup)

2 tablespoons dry sherry

2 cups water

1 teaspoon prepared horseradish (the white kind)

1 ½ cups warmed milk (can be low-fat)

1 ½ cups (packed) grated Swiss cheese

White pepper

Optional toppings: croutons, paprika or some minced pimientos

Melt the butter in a kettle or Dutch oven. Add onions, garlic, salt and dry mustard, and cook over medium heat 8 to 10 minutes, or until the onions are very soft.

Gradually sprinkle in the flour, stirring constantly, then add the sherry and mix well. Add water and horseradish. Stir and cook for about 5 minutes more.

Add milk and cheese. After adding the cheese, stir assiduously with a wooden spoon for a good few minutes. Much to your delight, everything will become remarkably smooth and well blended.

Add white pepper to taste, and while you're at it, adjust the other seasonings as well. You might wish to increase the mustard, sherry or horseradish (too late to decrease). Serve hot — plain, or topped with croutons, and/or a light dusting of paprika, and/or a small amount of finely minced pimiento.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

This "super quick, super easy and super tasty" chili for a large crowd is served at The Still Bar & Grill in Kitchener, Ontario. The recipe is from "Killer Chili."

THE STILL CHILI

1 large onion, diced

1 large red bell pepper, seeded and diced

1 large green bell pepper, seeded and diced

11 pounds lean ground beef

12 cups chili sauce

12 cups tomato-based pasta sauce

12 cups cooked kidney beans

½ beef bouillon cube dissolved in ½ cup water (or ½ cup beef broth)

Cayenne pepper, to taste

In a large, heavy pot, combine the onion, peppers and ground beef and brown over medium-high heat. Add the sauces, kidney beans, dissolved bouillon cube and cayenne and stir to combine. Simmer for ten minutes, then serve.

Makes 15 servings