COLE'S COOKING A TO Z–by Brete Harrison

Cookware today comes in all sizes, shapes and materials, from space-age alloys to traditional cast iron.

In the 21st century, cast-iron pots and pans may sound like something only Grandma would use, but old-fashioned as they are, for many experienced home cooks and professional chefs, nothing is better.

Their consistent heat conduction, easy clean-up, and low maintenance and cost make cast-iron pans a good choice for a lifetime of culinary enjoyment.

They are also a boon to the health-conscious, as a well-seasoned or -cured cast-iron pan is the original fat-free cooking tool.

Just as aluminium, copper, stainless and the like are varied in size, so is cast iron.

With a range generally from six inches to 12 inches for skillets, various-sized griddles and deep Dutch ovens, each has a purpose and can be used both on the stovetop and in the oven.

While you may start out with just one cast-iron skillet, perhaps a ten- or 12-incher, it will not take long for you to build an assorted collection.

SUCCESS TIPS

4 Good sources for acquiring a cast-iron pot and pan collection for your kitchen are house sales.

Gems from these sources are often better than new — the years of seasoned service are a virtue and the price is a bargain.

? Cleaning is important for cast iron. Wash with kitchen detergent after each use, but do not soak or place in the dishwasher.

After rinsing, thoroughly dry pan and provide touch-up seasoning by placing on a warm burner and applying a light coat of oil, shortening or lard, wiping clean with the burner off.

? Testing a skillet for cooking temperature, droplets of water should bounce or hop on the surface; too hot, they will disappear, too cool, they will just sit there.

? To season a skillet (or re-season if the surface has been damaged):

After rinsing with soap and water, wipe the surface clean and let dry. Then apply a light coat of vegetable oil, shortening or lard; place in the oven for 30 to 60 minutes upside down on a cookie sheet at 350 degrees. Turn off oven, let cool and, depending on the surface condition, repeat the process several times to improve the seasoning bond.

Whether for breakfast, brunch or dinner, all-in-one-skillet meals are the ultimate for comfort food and cooking convenience.

This recipe was inspired by traditional San Francisco diner cuisine, often found down on the wharves and docks.

Ground beef browned quickly in a skillet with onion and mushrooms, then scrambled with spinach and eggs, brings together an enticing mix of kitchen scents and tastes.

Serve with a crusty sourdough loaf and a robust California zinfandel or pinot noir for a special repast.

OLD JOE'S SPECIAL

1 ½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound ground beef, crumbled

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced or pressed

¼ pound white and brown mushrooms, sliced

1 teaspoon salt

? teaspoon each pepper and dried oregano

Pinch ground nutmeg

2 cups chopped spinach

3 eggs Grated Parmesan cheese

1. In a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat, heat olive oil and brown ground beef well.

2. Add onion, garlic and mushrooms; reduce heat and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until onion is soft.

3. Stir in salt, pepper, oregano, nutmeg and spinach; cook for about five minutes longer, stirring several times, until spinach is limp.

4. Reduce heat to low and break eggs over meat mixture. Quickly stir just until eggs begin to set. Serve immediately; sprinkle cheese over each serving to taste.

Serves three to four.

For additional culinary information and recipes from Cole's Cooking A to Z, e-mail AtoZ@culinarysocietyofamerica.com.