Poinsettias and Christmas Cactus have become flowering symbols of the spirit of the Christmas time holidays.

Both of these plants are stunning in their beauty while they are in bloom; but what do you do with them after the floral display is finished? Many volumes have been written concerning the commercial production of both of these plants. Large scale growing requires precise timing and exacting cultural controls to produce consistent, quality plants that are on time for the holidays. After the holidays, many people simply discard these lovely plants and then purchase new ones the following year.

Avid home gardeners, on the other hand, may enjoy nurturing them and trying to bring them into bloom for the subsequent year and for years to come. It is not impossible, but does require an understanding of just what makes these plants operate.

Poinsettia (Euphorbia pulcherrima) Originally the Poinsettia came from Mexico. It was a medium to large winter flowering' shrub. Through natural selection and hybridisation techniques, the many colours and forms we see today were developed.

Light Poinsettia is what we term a short day plant. This means that as the Days begin to get shorter and the nights get longer in the fall of the year, the plants are induced to begin their flowering process.

The critical day length for this to occur is about 12 hours and 15 minutes or less daylight. It occurs naturally during the first week of October at this latitude. After this day length has been achieved, it takes two months for the plants to come into full colour.

If a Poinsettia plant receives any stray light at night during this flower initiation period, flowering will be delayed. For the home gardener, this means careful placement in the garden.

If planted in the ground, exposure to a porch light or street light, or even automobile lights passing by at night, will present problems in timely flowering. If the plants are left to grow in pots, they may be placed in an area of complete nighttime darkness for this critical time.

Temperature Generally, Poinsettias are warm weather plants. The temperature range here, in Bermuda, is very satisfactory unless we have an unusually warm fall. If this happens, the plants will tend to stretch and maybe delay the blooming period.

Unfortunately, there is not much we can do about it, so we just hope for cool evenings during October and November.

Water Poinsettias grown at home should be watered somewhat sparingly. If grown in a container, the plant should be allowed to droop slightly and then water the media thoroughly. In other words do not allow the potting media to remain wet all the time.

Fertilizer A good general purpose house plant fertiliser with a balanced analysis such as 20-20-20 should be applied on a monthly basis during the time that the plants are growing Once they begin to show colour about mid-November, stop fertilising until the colours begin to fade in the spring. Then fertilising may begin again.

Insects and Diseases Nearly all of the common garden pests seem to enjoy dining on Poinsettia plants. Because of this, you should inspect these plants often and very carefully. Anytime you are able to detect a problem early it is much easier to get under control.

The major insect problems you may encounter include: Whitefly Mites Caterpillars You should ask a nursery professional about the most effective means of controlling these pest problems.

Poinsettia plants are also susceptible to several different disease problems.

Most of the disease causing fungi can best be controlled by not letting them get started in the first place.

If watering is done correctly, i.e. allowing the plant to become dry between waterings, conditions for disease development will not be favourable.

Occasionally a problem can get started despite our best efforts. If the plant begins to decline and the roots have a dark, rotted appearance, a fungicide drench may be in order and, if the plant develops leaf spots that seem to get larger or more numerous, a fungicide spray may be needed. Once again a nursery professional can recommend an effective control.

Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera) The Christmas Cactus varieties that we enjoy around the Christmas holidays are hybrid plants that originally came from tropical forests.

The story of Christmas plants They grew naturally in the clefts of tree branches in pockets of leaf debris.

Even though this is a very moist environment, the leaf mold they thrive in usually does not remain wet all of the time.

Even though they are true cacti, they are very different from their desert relatives and need abundant moisture to survive. Christmas cactus does not have leaves, but the flattened green stem segments serve the same function as the leaves on other types of plants.

In order to grow these plants successfully at home, one must duplicate their natural growing conditions as closely as possible. They should not be left in the full sun, so if grown out of doors, the shade of a tree or porch overhang would probably work well.

Christmas Cactus may also be grown indoors but will need to be grown in bright filtered light.

Light Like Poinsettia plants, Christmas Cactus responds to the shortening days in the fall of the year to begin their blooming process. Exposure to nighttime light, starting in October, will delay the blooms until after the holidays.

Temperature As Schlumbergara is a tropical plant, it thrives best in a warm humid environment and does not require temperature adjustments to bloom correctly.

Water Christmas Cactus should be planted in a very well drained potting media (2 parts potting mix to 1 part Perlite). Even though they enjoy abundant moisture, they will suffer if allowed to remain wet for too long.

Water on a regular basis all during the time the plants are actively growing, then cut back on the water while they are blooming and for a rest period afterwards Start watering again when new growth begins to flush out in the spring.

Fertilizer Fertilize using a good general purpose house plant fertiliser with a balanced analysis, i.e. 20-20-20 on a monthly basis until the first part of September.

At that time, switch to using fertiliser intended for tomatoes and vegetables with a higher last number in the analysis, i.e. 18-18-21. This will help to push out more and better blooms.

y Insects and Diseases Caterpillars are an occasional problem with these plants. They damage the plants by chewing holes in the stem segments. They can be controlled by picking them off and destroying them or with the use of an insecticide.

The story of Christmas plants pockets of leaf debris. Even though this is a very moist environment, the leaf mold they thrive in usually does not remain wet all of the time.

Even though they are true cacti, they are very different from their desert relatives and need abundant moisture to survive. Christmas cactus does not have leaves, but the flattened green stem segments serve the same function as the leaves on other types of plants.

In order to grow these plants successfully at home, one must duplicate their natural growing conditions as closely as possible. They should not be left in the full sun, so if grown out of doors, the shade of a tree or porch overhang would probably work well.

Christmas Cactus may also be grown indoors but will need to be grown in bright filtered light.

Light Like Poinsettia plants, Christmas Cactus responds to the shortening days in the fall of the year to begin their blooming process. Exposure to nighttime light, starting in October, will delay the blooms until after the holidays.

Temperature As Schlumbergara is a tropical plant, it thrives best in a warm humid environment and does not require temperature adjustments to bloom correctly.

Water Christmas Cactus should be planted in a very well drained potting media (2 parts potting mix to 1 part Perlite). Even though they enjoy abundant moisture, they will suffer if allowed to remain wet for too long.

Water on a regular basis all during the time the plants are actively growing, then cut back on the water while they are blooming and for a rest period afterwards Start watering again when new growth begins to flush out in the spring.

Fertilizer Fertilize using a good general purpose house plant fertiliser with a balanced analysis, i.e. 20-20-20 on a monthly basis until the first part of September.

At that time, switch to using fertiliser intended for tomatoes and vegetables with a higher last number in the analysis, i.e. 18-18-21. This will help to push out more and better blooms.

y Insects and Diseases Caterpillars are an occasional problem with these plants. They damage the plants by chewing holes in the stem segments. They can be controlled by picking them off and destroying them or with the use of an insecticide.

Aberfeldy's Susan Outerbridge tending the cacti. There are many beautiful red hues crowning the cacti. They make nice gifts for children to purchase for family or teacher at $5 each. The Christmas Cactus varieties we enjoy around the Christmas holidays are hybrid plants originally from tropical forests.

Trent Smith, he's happy in a garden of sago palms at Alberfeldy. He's the supervisor of hardy outdoor plants.