COLE'S COOKING A TO Z– by Brete Harrison

Chilly winds of fall are soon forgotten when dinner is called and this lemony roast chicken comes to the table nestled cozily in its herb-seasoned country loaf. Talk about comfort food!

COOKING A TO Z KITCHEN SUCCESS TIPS:

— To cut time in cooking, the bread can be baked a day in advance of serving and reheated during the last quarter hour the chicken roasts. If the bread has been frozen, remove it from the freezer several hours in advance (or the night before).

— Looking for a good place to let yeast dough expand, remember that heat rises and a warm cupboard above your refrigerator or kitchen range can provide a cosy place to complete the process.

— To test dough to determine if it has risen enough, dent the surface gently with your index finger. If the dent remains, the dough is ready.

ROAST CHICKEN IN HERB BREAD BASKET

2 packages active dry yeast

2 ½ cups warm (105 to 115 degrees) water

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon poultry seasoning

2 teaspoons salt

7 to 7 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 egg white, beaten with 1 teaspoon water

2 teaspoons sesame seed

1 whole frying chicken (3 to 3 ½ pounds)

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced or pressed

1. Sprinkle yeast over ½ cup of the warm water in large electric mixer bowl. Add honey and let stand until yeast is soft (approximately five minutes).

2. Stir in remaining two cups warm water, poultry seasoning and salt. Add 4 ½ cups of the flour; mix to blend, then beat at medium speed until smooth and elastic (approximately five minutes). Stir in about two cups more flour to make a soft dough.

3. Turn dough out onto a coated board or pastry cloth. Knead until small bubbles form just under surface (20 to 25 minutes). Add just enough flour to keep dough from sticking.

4. Turn dough in a greased bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and a towel; let rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk (45 minutes to one hour).

5. Punch risen dough down; cover and let rest for ten minutes. Shape dough into a stubby oval loaf approximately ten inches long and six inches wide, tapering ends slightly.

6. Place on a greased baking sheet. Let rise until almost doubled in bulk (30 to 45 minutes). Brush loaf lightly with egg white mixture; sprinkle with sesame seed. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

7. Bake until loaf is well-browned and sounds hollow when tapped (45 to 55 minutes). Slide onto a wire rack and let cool for at least two hours.

8. Approximately two hours before serving, remove chicken giblets (reserving them, if you wish, for another use) and pull off and discard excess fat from bird.

In a small pan over medium heat, melt butter with olive oil, lemon juice and garlic; bring to a boil and let boil for two minutes. Remove from heat. Brush chicken, inside and out, with butter mixture (reserve two to three tablespoons).

9. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Place chicken on a rack in a shallow pan with wings tucked under, legs skewered or tied together. Roast, uncovered, until chicken is well-browned and leg moves freely when wiggled (approximately one hour and 30 minutes).

10. While chicken roasts, use a serrated knife to cut off top of loaf. With a curved knife, cut around edge to remove inside of bread, leaving about a ¾-inch-thick crust.

Reserve removed bread to use to make poultry stuffing or breadcrumbs. Cut away some of the soft bread on underside of top of loaf. Brush inside of loaf (upper and lower parts) with reserved butter, oil and garlic mixture.

11. Replace top and place loaf on a baking sheet in oven with chicken during last 15 minutes it roasts.

12. To serve, place chicken inside loaf. Replace top of loaf or stand it at an angle beside loaf and serve on a wooden board. Carve chicken; then slice bread shell into chunks. Serve hot or warm. Serves four.

For additional culinary information and recipes from Cole's Cooking A to Z, e-mail AtoZ@culinarysocietyofamerica.com.