The back end of summer is oft unpredictable, with the threat of hurricanes and stormy weather. With this in mind prevention should be the order of the day, and steps taken to reduce the impact of Mother Nature's idiosyncrasies.

With the heavy rainfall in June and rapid growth thereafter many plants will be 'top heavy' with foliage. This applies to trees and shrubs, therefore thinning out of same should be a priority in order to avoid serious structural damage. This is also a good time to correct 'shapeliness' and balance the all round appearance of shrubs. With new growth there is a tendency for the 'structure' of the branch system to become ungainly with crossing and drooping branches, often of a weak habit filling the inner growth of the plant. Long straggly growth weakens the plant as it becomes prone to being blown over if lop-sided and weak growth oft succumbs to pest and disease damage. Remove crossing, dead and diseased wood to encourage an open centre to allow light to encourage new growth in the 'centre' of the plant. Prune to an outward and upward pointing bud, this will reduce the drooping growth that heavily branched plants incur when given little attention. Long branches should be shortened to encourage new healthy wood which will be the available base wood for future pruning. When pruning check for damaged foliage and pest and disease problems and treat accordingly.

The tree canopy will have developed much growth over the last couple of months; as tree damage is difficult to assess therefore a foray into the canopy should be undertaken by a professional tree surgeon who will know what to look for and identify problems immediately. Large canopies of growth hold much weight and when laden with foliage become a major burden on the trunk and root system especially during stormy weather. Long weighty branches can 'collapse' under such conditions; the ideal 'canopy or head' should have a uniform head of growth weighted equally around the trunk and an open habit to allow strong winds to 'filter' through. A tree surgeon will advise on pruning, bracing or reducing the crown of the tree according to the species in question. Old trees will appear 'sound' but inspection of the trunk and branch system may identify a fungal problem which will not appear externally but work its way down the inner part of the trunk to such a degree the rot will cause the tree to split or fall over, especially during high winds.

Wind and salt spray causes severe damage to soft growth; consider reducing the amount of nitrogenous fertiliser given to plants late in the summer as this will encourage growth which by its very nature will be 'soft'.

Over-planting is, in my opinion, a common but incorrect practice in Bermuda. Plants if healthy and maintained correctly will grow to produce good specimens of the species. It is therefore important to know details of a plants growth habit, etc, when selecting plants for specific areas, as such knowledge should be the information needed to avoid over-planting or planting too close to the next plant. Over-planting can encourage dense growth which will be shredded during high winds; many plants are blown out of the ground because of a weak root system which is invariably created by poor planting practices. Roots are meant to grow in tandem with top growth and act as an anchor as well as a conduit for plant nutrients, if they do not have a deep root run they can be easily dislodged and blown over. A good sized planting hole will assist greatly in good growth and a stable growth pattern with roots being able to penetrate into the soil and search for water; developing a good root system is critical especially in exposed areas as the root is the anchor for the rest of the plant holding it in place during high winds.

When planting consider the growth habit of the plant, most plants have a uniform habit i.e. 'roundish/symmetrical' and the root system will have the same habit. It should follow that to obtain the best growth and sturdiness of a plant the root should be given room to grow. Planting too close to a wall or foundation does nothing for the ultimate shape of the plant and especially encourages a 'duck' footed root system. A 'free' root run will encourage uniformity of growth by roots and top growth, with the end product being a better healthier plant.

Depth of soil is not the same as size of hole, roots require 'soil' to become established; digging a large hole and then backfilling with rocks or stones does nothing for the potential of the plant. If anything it decreases its growth potential.

Several problems are created with rocky sub bases. First and foremost soil settles finding its way between the air spaces between the rocks, and thus subsidence occurs. Secondly, the roots will tend to search for moisture in areas of soil which retain moisture; if roots 'grow' into rocky areas with air pockets they can malfunction and dry out. In the long term roots may develop a system literally 'growing' on the surface which makes for a weak anchor in times of high winds. Depth of soil is an important factor in the landscape, we all remember the hot dry spring when lawns were almost non-existent and brown, and lawns with a deeper soil fared better than shallow areas as roots were forced to search for moisture.