COLE'S COOKING A TO Z by Brete Harrison

Most home cooks shopping for chicken make a bee-line to the cooler case of tender, boneless, white breast meat — the most expensive part of the bird.

But there is much more to chicken, and the darker, less-expensive thigh meat especially deserves a closer look.

Professional chefs particularly love thigh meat. It is versatile, flavorful and can be creatively prepared in a variety of ways — from oven baking to stewing or sauteing.

Be adventuresome and use international herbs, condiments, sauces and glazes to turn everyday chicken dishes into company-quality dining experiences.

Surrounded with rice and Asian-style vegetables, you can have a complete, delicious meal on the table in less than an hour.

COOKING A TO Z KITCHEN SUCCESS TIP

– Chicken thighs can be deboned easily: Just separate the flesh and pull out the single bone with your fingers. Deboned thighs can often be substituted for boneless breast meat for about a third the cost.

KOREAN CHICKEN THIGHS

1 (6-ounce) package mixed wild and white rice

2 tablespoons each butter and oil

6 chicken thighs

1 cup soy sauce

¼ cup sugar

2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

¼ cup red wine vinegar or white vinegar

1 ½ teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes

1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

2. According to package directions, cook rice about 20 to 25 minutes.

3. In a large, ovenproof skillet or casserole over medium-high heat, melt and blend butter and oil. Add chicken and saute, skin side down, until golden brown (four to five minutes). Drain fat.

4. While chicken is cooking, whisk together soy sauce, sugar, garlic, vinegar and red pepper flakes for sauce.

5. Turn chicken skin side up, pour sauce over, cover and place in oven.

Bake until tender, about 15 to 20 minutes; to crisp skin, remove cover during last five minutes.

6. Serve with rice.

Serves six.

For variety, try these Pacific Island-, Southeast Asian- and Indian-inspired variations on the Korean Chicken Thighs.

HAWAIIAN PINEAPPLE CHICKEN

Complete steps 1 through 3 of Korean Chicken Thighs recipe.

Drain 1 (8-ounce) can pineapple chunks, reserving ¾ cup juice. Distribute pineapple over chicken after turning. Top with two limes or one lemon, thinly sliced, and one cup sliced almonds. Pour juice over pineapple and citrus, bake as directed in step five and serve with rice.

VIETNAMESE FRENCH DIJON MUSTARD-SAUCE CHICKEN

Complete steps one through three of Korean Chicken Thighs recipe. Mix together three tablespoons Dijon mustard and two tablespoons red wine vinegar. Pour over chicken after turning, bake as directed in step five and serve with rice.

INDIAN YOGURT AND CURRY CHICKEN

Complete steps one through three of Korean Chicken Thighs recipe, adding two small chopped red onions to skillet with chicken. Mix together one cup plain yogurt, ¼ cup tomato paste, one or two cloves minced garlic, two teaspoons curry powder, ½ teaspoon ground coriander, and ¼ teaspoon each ground cumin and ginger. Salt and pepper to taste. Spread over chicken after turning, bake as directed in step five and serve with rice.

These vegetable accompaniments will complete your chicken dinner's distinctly pan-Asian flair.

BUTTER-STEAMED LEEKS

1 bunch small leeks (about 3)

2 tablespoons butter

¼ cup water

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese (for garnish)

1. Trim leek root ends, removing most of green leaves. Split lengthwise, washing under cold water and separating leaves to clean thoroughly. 2. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter until browning slightly.

3. Add leeks and the water, covering while increasing heat to high. Cook until tender (three to five minutes). Sprinkle with cheese before serving.

Serves six.

SAUTEED SNOW PEAS

1 pound fresh snow peas

1 tablespoon butter

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Wash and drain snow peas; removing ends if desired.

2. In a large frying pan over medium-high heat, melt butter; add garlic and saute briefly. Add snow peas, sauteing until shiny and heated through (two to three minutes). Season to taste. Serves six.

For additional culinary information and recipes from Cole's Cooking A to Z, e-mail AtoZ@culinarysocietyofamerica.com.