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A New England feast at Elbow Beach

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Executive chef Guido Brambilla will offer a New England menu at Mickey?s at Elbow Beach this winter. (Photo by Mark Tatem)

Anyone who considers Bermuda's dish the authentic fish chowder, will likely have a shock on first trying New England's version. There are no sherry peppers in it; its base is made predominantly of cream. Once you get over the difference, there's a lot about it to enjoy.New England fish chowder is now on the menu at Mickey's Beach Bistro and Bar at the Elbow Beach Hotel.It's part of a rustic menu of New England favourites that will only be offered on weekends at the South Shore restaurant throughout the winter months.Also on offer? Clam pie, lobster sandwiches and Samuel Adams brand beers by the bucketful. The word chowder originates from the Latin word ‘calderia' which is also the root for the word ‘cauldron'. Historically, versions of chowder were common in seabound areas worldwide. The dish was originally cooked in hanging pots or kettles over a fire, hence the association with the word ‘cauldron'. Early settlers to America made chowder using biscuits and salt pork as ingredients; today's New Englanders add oyster crackers. “New England fish chowder is quite different from Bermuda chowder,” said Guido Brambilla, executive chef at the Lido complex of restaurants at Elbow Beach. “It doesn't contain the spices that Bermuda chowder has. It contains dairy because it is done with cream. There are, of course, many different versions of fish chowder.“The one we are doing is very simple. We started off with maple smoked bacon, which is a New England thing. It gives a salty and sweet kick to it. Then we put in onions, potatoes, haddock, cod fillets and cream. It is very basic and rustic. We didn't go really far with strange combinations of flavours. Everything is very straight forward, based on real ingredients.”One of the reasons Mickey's decided to go with a New England menu is that they purchased much of their seafood from that area in the past calamari from Rhode Island; smoked salmon from Maine.Mickey's will close throughout the week but those hankering for a selection of seafood on the weekend can also enjoy raw Island Creek oysters, Cape Cod clam pie and even a traditional Boston lobster roll made with Bermuda spiny lobster.“Being the weather is often so fine in the winter, and we are trying to attract customers over the weekend, we decided to do a simple rustic menu,” said Mr Brambilla. “A lot of Bermudians are familiar with New England cuisine and a lot of people working here are from New England or have visited there.”Mickey's will be serving on Saturday and Sundays from 12pm to 3pm. The bar will open on these days from 10am to 6pm offering wine and beer specials. On Sundays DJ Kaos will play music from 3pm to 6pm.“We are talking about comfort, winter food,” said Mr Brambilla. “If I was not working I would be a guest in the restaurant for this kind of food.”For more information or reservations telephone 236-9107.

Executive chef Guido Brambilla will offer a New England menu at Mickey?s at Elbow Beach this winter. (Photo by Mark Tatem)
Executive chef Guido Brambilla will offer a New England menu at Mickey?s at Elbow Beach this winter. (Photo by Mark Tatem)
Executive chef Guido Brambilla will offer a New England menu at Mickey?s at Elbow Beach this winter. (Photo by Mark Tatem)
New England fish chowder

Ingredients:3lbs maple smoked bacon2 thyme sprigs10 bay leaves4 large white onions12 large Idaho potatoes5 quarts heavy cream50lbs mixed haddock and cod4 gallons fish stock1 bottle dry white wineParsleyCoarse black peppercornsKosher saltButterOlive oil

Method:In a large pot, melt butter and olive oil. Sauté chopped bacon and chopped onion until golden brown. Pour the white wine and let reduce by 70 percent. Add the potatoes cut in cubes, chopped thyme and bay leaves. Add the fish stock, let it boil and pour in the cream. When it starts to simmer, add the broken haddock and cod, previously steamed. Let it simmer again and adjust the texture with corn flour diluted in cold water. Season with salt. Serve with fresh chopped parsley and black peppercorns.