Two hundred million years ago a tropical sea covered the region in France that we now know as Chablis, and it is the deep limestone soils, formed by sea shells, that impart unique characteristics to the wines of the same name.

Chardonnay was planted by Cistercian monks in the 12th century and by the 19th century these vines covered slightly more than 98,000 acres. Along came the railroads that could bring wines from far afield and so being just 100 miles south-east of Paris lost its advantage. Then powdery mildew and phylloxera struck and by the 1950s a scant 1,235 acres of vineyards were producing wine around the ancient town of Chablis.

As appreciation of Chardonnay grew, this tiny area expanded to 10,000 acres by 2004 and it continues to do so. In 1850 the first Laroche bought land in Chablis and today their holdings are 247 acres spread out between regular Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru (73 acres) and Chablis Grand Cru (15 acres). They are gradually converting to organic and biodynamic farming which only six percent of Burgundy folks do (Our Joseph Drouhin is biodynamic).

I have always felt that this family is on the cutting edge of new ideas, trends and technology. For instance, during dinner with Michel Laroche and his team, in France, in 2001, he told us that he planned to announce to the press the following day that he was introducing screw caps. He planned to give customers a choice of cork or screw cap on his regular Chablis and Chablis Premier Cru, but there would be no choice on his very finest Chablis Grand Cru as it would be screw cap only! He was the very first in all of Burgundy to use these enclosures.

Domaine Laroche Chablis Reserve “Saint Martin” is named to honour the patron saint of Chablis, who at one time rested in a crypt in the spot that is now the head office of Laroche. This Chardonnay has a beautiful, transparent colour of golden green and the nose is subtle and creamy. The words “steel” and “gun-flint” are often used to describe what the deep, chalk soil adds to the wine and you will find in the St Martin a suggestion of butter with classical mineral notes and hints of hazelnut and gunpowder. Orange and spice are also there and you will discover that the Chablis style of making Chardonnay uses less oak influence than other parts of Burgundy and quite a bit less than the New World. $29.25.

It is usually said that 40 vineyards have the designation Premier Cru, but truthfully it is a little more complicated as some, like Montmains, let lesser known, nearby, smaller ones use their “Umbrella” name. Laroche Chablis Premier Cru “Montmains” 2008 gives you the opportunity to see how long these white wines of Burgundy can age (we just landed the 2012 if you prefer fresher). I first learned of this ability when Michel opened a double magnum of his 1987 Chablis Grand Cru for a few of us to try in 2001. This Premier Cru Montmains 2008 is medium yellow with citrus, apple, mango, bread-crust, minerals and herbal tea. Like all Laroche wines I think that it is a wonderful bridge between Old and New World styles. $39.50.

Of the 247 acres (by coincidence the same amount that Laroche owns overall) that are divided into seven Grand Cru vineyards, I think it fair to say that “Les Clos” is the finest. Its steep slope faces south and maximum sun exposure gives rich, ripe and powerful wines that can age for 20 years. The year 2007 was a classic vintage in Chablis and of the Laroche Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, of which Robert Parker writes: “Combines overtly, almost adamantly stony character with fresh lime, peach, fig and hints of lanolin and vanilla. It incorporates a richness of fruit that serves well in a seamless — although highly mineral — sappy and sensually satisfying mouthful.” $99.85.

In the 1970s Chablis was virtually a generic name for white wine and if those that asked: “May I have a glass of Chablis, please?” had actually been served Chablis they would have been shocked. We used to import “Chablis Blanc” and “Pink Chablis” from California in those days, but the misuse of that name is no longer allowed here or in many other countries.

This column is a paid advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.