A Bermudian designer is rapidly becoming a global authority on the Afghanistan jewellery industry.

Melanie Eddy travelled to the war-torn country courtesy of a British Council Residency programme and Turquoise Mountain, an organisation helping to revive traditional crafts there.

Miss Eddy, an associate professor of Central St Martin’s College of Art and Design in London, helped fledgling jewellers in Afghanistan set up businesses and collaborate with established designers around the world.

Her efforts drew the attention of the organisers of Design Week in Chiang Mai, Thailand. People there are now working to revive the crafts industry which is in decline and invited Miss Eddy as a keynote speaker at that event.

Q: How did it go at Chiang Mai Design Week?

A: It went really well. I had a really positive reception.

Q: What was Chiang Mai like?

A: It was really interesting. There was quite a vibrant design culture. There were lots of new designers and crafts businesses around.

Q: What did you talk about?

A: I talked a lot about Afghanistan. I also talked about how when I first left university I didn’t want to compromise on materials and craftsmanship (for financial reasons), so I took on other works to support my studio work.

That turned into a way of working in itself. I talked about my jewellery, and my interest in geometric designs and their connections with the sacred. I talked about the British Council Residency projects I was involved in in Afghanistan and how that challenged perceptions. I also talked about art and culture in conflict situations.

Q: What sort of gems do they have in Afghanistan?

A: Afghanistan is known for Lapis Lazuli, but there are 120 different gem occurrences. People would be more familiar with emeralds, rubies sapphires, amethysts that come from Afghanistan.

Q: What sort of challenges would jewellers face in Afghanistan?

A: There are lots of difficulties, just in terms of infrastructure and society. There isn’t as much support for new businesses as there is in our part of the world.

There are not many business loans. The market is quite changeable and getting your goods out and about and for sale in different contexts is quite challenging. Security changes on a daily basis. You might plan for an event and then not be able to sell your stuff because of a security situation.

Q: What are you hoping will come out of the Thailand trip?

A: For me it was interesting to be asked to speak at Chiang Mai Design Week and talk to some people about experiences I have had in Afghanistan. It was good to talk about interesting collaborations that are happening through programmes such as the British Council Residency programmes.

It was an opportunity to open people up to what is going on in terms of contemporary jewellery practices in Afghanistan.

Q: When you first started making jewellery did you expect it to take you so far around the world?

A: No, never. When I first started I was in Bermuda helping out at a jewellery store after graduating from university in Canada. Ten years ago, I came over to the United Kingdom for professional development.

I ended up doing my master’s in London. I didn’t really think I would go much further afield than the United Kingdom.

My first couple of years I was doing some work for a trade publication and I remember going to Germany, and that was pretty exciting. I definitely didn’t expect my work to take me to Afghanistan, India and now Thailand.

Q: Any plans to do any work in Bermuda?

A: I can’t say too much at the moment, but I might be doing some work in Bermuda in the future. After ten years abroad, I am looking forward to re-engaging with Bermuda.

For more information visit www.melanieeddy.co.uk.