A family affair
Raised on a South Dakota farm, Jerry Lohr understood the relationship between the land and growing crops and in the late 1960’s he decided to search for the perfect spot to grow wine grapes. This led him to the newly developing Central Coast region of California and he was one of the first to understand the potential of Monterey and Paso Robles.
Today they have 1,300 acres of cool-climate vineyards in the Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands regions of Monterey County and 2,300 acres in Paso Robles. They even have 33 acres in Napa Valley. Jerry Lohr’s remarkable career continues in close, hands-on partnership with his children and co-owners Steve, Cynthia and Lawrence.
Paso Robles has gained a fine reputation with the production of Cabernet Sauvignon and we have a couple from J. Lohr such as their Hilltop Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 that is described this way by the Wine Enthusiast magazine “Editor’s choice – 91/100 In a state awash in great but often high-priced Cabs, this bottling punches way above its weight class. Blueberry and blackcurrant meet with asphalt, mint and milk chocolate on the nose. A silky mouthfeel then ensues, with smoke, chocolate and charred beef flavors against a fresh blackberry backdrop, lifted by a touch of dill”. Natalie Maclean in Canada also rates it 91/100. The winemaker talks of black plum, tobacco, hazelnut and cocoa. $38.15.
The J. Lohr “Seven Oaks” Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 is their most popular one and I am sure this is because at $24.00, it is a good bargain if you are looking for a full -bodied wine packed with black cherry, blackcurrant, cedar, vanilla and spice. There are also hints of dark chocolate, hazelnut and toasted pastry. It is typical of the high-toned fruit that this area offers. As a comparison the Wine Enthusiast rates it 89/100 - and they classify 87 to 89 as “very good”.
J. Lohr “Los Osos” Merlot 2014 is actually a blend of 86% Melot with the rest being Malbec. Here is what Steve Peck, their winemaker thinks of it “The 2014 J. Lohr Estates Los Osos Merlot presents a mature red color with a raspberry hue. Plummy fruit aromas are integrated with a chocolaty barrel signature of mocha and baking spice. Whole berry fermentation with a generous use of Malbec in the blend accentuates the fine tannins, bright fruit tones and lengthy finish”. The wine is aged for one year in American oak and I always appreciate the warmth and spice that this adds. $25.00
Pinot Noir prefers a far cooler climate than Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvingon and so we now move the Monterey Highlands that are influenced by the cold Pacific Ocean. The J. Lohr Falcon’s Perch Monterey Pinot Noir 2013 is a welcome addition to our wine portfolio as Pinot Noirs from the West Coast of the U.S.A. are growing in popularity. This wine shows black cherry and strawberries and its clean acidity invites a wide range of food pairings such as salmon and tuna. $24.05.
If you are looking for a wine to match with Pacific Rim foods, or an Indian curry, then Riesling is usually a safe bet. This classic grape of Germany thrives in cool areas, after all Germany has the most Northern vineyards in the World. J. Lohr also seeks out the influence of cold waters for their “Bay Mist” Monterey Riesling 2013. When I started in this business I am quite sure that Riesling was the most popular white wine grape and my theory is that sales took a dive because words like trockenbeerenauslese just frightened folks away. We now find that this classic grape is slowly working its way back in as wine becomes more and more popular.
Bay Mist represents the typical old-fashioned style that Germany has made for over one thousand years and by this I mean that some residual sugar is left in the wine and this also results in fairly low alcohol levels. Pale straw yellow in colour, the perfume is of apricot, tangerine peel, fresh green apple and sweet lavender. The acidity nicely balances with sugar and it is a lovely aperitif that must be served quite cold. $20.50.
The last wine in this group is their “Riverstone” Monterey Chardonnay 2015 that The Wine Enthusiast describes in the way, “This widely available wine is a crowd-pleasing knockout, with Gravenstein apple, browned butter, popcorn and vanilla cream scents leading the nose. The flavors are elementary Chardonnay: baked apple, seared white peach and light almond with butter touches”. They rate it 88/100. $21.45.
•This column is a paid for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St. George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.