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Bermudian reflects on Afghanistan teaching adventure

Melanie Eddy on the grounds of the Turquoise Mountain Institute for Afghan Arts and Architecture. She spent two months there teaching students about jewellery design techniques from the west.

Stepping foot in the airport in Kabul, Afghanistan, Melanie Eddy knew she was in for an eye-opening experience.Tons of military helicopters lined the runway, instead of the normal line-up of commercial airliners.The 31-year-old jewellery designer covered her hair with a scarf and braced herself for the immigration process that awaited her.But instead of the terrifying interrogation depicted in Western films and television news, she was greeted by a friendly officer.“It was surprising to have someone be that friendly,” she said. “He was official, but not scary. That made me feel more relaxed.”Ms Eddy travelled from her home in London, UK to the Central Asian country as part of a residency programme with The British Council.Taking part in its ‘New Silk Road' project, she spent two months teaching Afghan students, between ages 16 and 26, jewellery making techniques.While there she learnt more about the mysterious and often misunderstood nation and was able to introduce some western traditions to those she encountered.Living inside a restored 19th Century fort, Ms Eddy taught workshops and presented lectures at Turquoise Mountain, the Institute of Afghan Arts and Architecture.She ate a mixture of British and traditional Afghan meals prepared by cooks, and she said the climate was very dry during her September 12 to November 11 visit. “The middle of the days were generally warm, but the mornings and evenings could get cold,” she said.During her residency she learnt about the country's culture and people.She saw that head scarves were not only worn by women, but men as well, to shield them from the harsh mid-day sun and other elements.When sightseeing, she observed the country had an interesting mix of old and new. There could be a century-old building next to a shop selling i-Phones, she explained.“When you first get there and do not know what it is like you feel uneasy in certain situations because you do not understand.” But with time you get more comfortable, she added.There were guards who kept track of her whereabouts outside the complex and certain morning hours people were asked not to travel.“I arrived just before the parliamentary elections so there was lots of stuff around that time.”Ms Eddy said she tried not to have too many perceptions about Afghanistan before heading there and admitted she learnt a lot from the experience.“For me I think everyone thought as a woman living in Afghanistan that would be really challenging in terms of gender issues and working with men. I do not feel that was an issue when I was there.“It wasn't a part of my every day reality that I was confronted with. I was always treated with a lot of respect. People were really open and very giving of their time and welcoming and very open to asking my opinion.“I didn't feel like I had to assert myself and I didn't find it difficult to be heard.”While not everyone will get a chance to travel to the Islamic nation, she urged people to be open minded about other cultures and people.“Do not believe everything you read in the media. Try and investigate for yourself.“Everyone there is just living their life day to day. They just happen to be in a place that is going through a lot of political, social and economic issues. They are just going about their lives and are not so dissimilar from us.”Teaching ArtMelanie Eddy was selected by the British Council to complete a creative residency at the Turquoise Mountain's Institute of Afghan Arts and Architecture.She taught technical workshops to young art students, aged 16 to 26, studying ceramics, calligraphy, wood working, jewellery design and gem cutting.In addition to technical workshops on wax carving and other techniques, Ms Eddy helped the students develop their own style.She also encouraged them to explore contemporary cultural jewellery designs, rather than sticking to those used in the west. Ms Eddy had worked as a jeweller in Bermuda before going to the UK to develop her talent.She graduated from the Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design with a MA in jewellery design in 2007 and currently runs a studio in London UK.The purpose of the residency was to build a working relationship between England and Afghanistan through applied arts.The exchange allowed her to learn about Afghan culture, as well as teach others about the ways of the west.A contemporary jeweller from Afghanistan will also have the opportunity to undertake a similar programme in London.The British Council has similar projects going on around Asia, including fashion and textile exchanges in Bangladesh, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Pakistan.For more information on the programme visit www.thebritishcouncil.org or to learn more about the artist visit www.melanieeddy.co.uk.To find out more about Turquoise Mountain visit www.turquoisemountain.org.