I'm sitting writing this on our waterfront cottage porch with a Utopian, 180-degree view of Lake Tahoe stretched out before us . . . and it's all thanks to an AAA (American Automobile Association) guidebook purchased for 50 cents at an exceptional North Shore estate sale.

We all have our own personal way of not only choosing a travel destination, but also where to stay once we arrive. Some rely on advice of a trusted travel agent, others search out the Internet, guidebooks, advice of friends of a combination of all the above.

Because we're always on the lookout for something unusual and unique to tell readers about, we tend to arrive without reservations and proceed to search out something special... except, of course when returning to Alsace or taking a cruise.

Our goal after my brother Jim's business in Carson City was Lake Tahoe, the enormous, mountain-rimmed wonder straddling the Nevada-California state lines and only an hour west of Reno's International Airport.

Californians regard it with almost magical, mystic reverence. And, happily, so does the US Forest Service and Nevada and California State Park systems which have worked diligently to preserve its natural wilderness flavour. Otherwise, it might have become edged with high-rise condos.

Private land is a curious blend of resort development. Dramatic multi-million-dollar vacation homes often share the shoreline with hippie counter-culture cabins.

It's a true mix of Californians. The so-called "merchant class" who accumulated their fortunes catering to gold seekers during California's Gold Rush of 1849 were among the first to discover it as a vacation heaven.

Even Mark Twain, who worked in close-by Virginia City as a young newspaperman, wrote: "To obtain the air the angels breathe, you must go to Tahoe."

For us, this was an encore visit, first exploring the region as youngsters on one of our family's epic summer vacations. Ten years ago we'd come back on two in-depth visits very close in succession.

On each of those trips we'd spent some time at Meeks Bay. The US Forest Service owned lakeshore property once the private estate of the founder of Hewlett Packard Company. The location at that time was favoured by Gordon Getty's family who settled into the main house.

There had also been stays at comfortable suites in both the Resort At Squaw Creek and South Lake Tahoe's large resort-like Embassy Suites.

But this time we really wanted a solitary cottage at the north end of the lake, not an easy choice since we've all seen too many properties that look secluded and away from it all in their brochures, only to discover in person they're beside massive multi-storey developments.

Hyatt has just such a property at Incline Village and many of the area ski resort properties are massive. On those previous trips seeking out just exactly what we wanted wasn't easy.

Land here, as in Bermuda, is sold by the square inch and private residences are increasingly competing for what little comes on the market. Days before departure, a possible answer came in an unusual way. Owner of a multi-million-dollar suburban home was moving to a Chicago condo near the university where he was mathematics professor.

Along with family antiques up for sale in this large 1880s vintage beauty near Lake Michigan were walls of books, a surprising portion of them travel-oriented. It was AAA's Northern California-Nevada latest edition that found us this site.

There on page 369 was the Franciscan Lakeside Lodge showing a long row of individual cottages actually on the beach at the Village of Tahoe Vista.

"You must travel a lot," I commented to the sixtysomething owner when we stopped by a couple of days later to arrange delivery of some large custom-made workshop cabinets Jim had bought.

And he modestly reeled off a list of mathematics conferences he'd participated in during the past 30 years from Berlin to Beijing, remembering the year of each one. A very interesting person, it was soon apparent he was different.

Without sounding like I was interviewing him, but instead just talking about area universities including the one where he taught, it was soon obvious he was not only different but brilliant.

I learned he'd been recruited for the University of Chicago's famous Lab school at age 11, entering its accelerated high school programme, graduating at age 12.

This was a unique programme established by University of Chicago Chancellor Robert Maynard Hutchins focusing on young geniuses. In the next eight years he received five college degrees there, including advanced ones in both physics and mathematics by the age of 20.

Awesome. One hears about genius types, sees some examples on television programmes such as CBS' Numbers, but one doesn't normally encounter them like this. Indulging in the art of conversation certainly can reveal interesting personalities.

It's refreshing to find them very much like the rest of us when it comes to travel. This man of many interests was ready to spend hours talking travel, intrigued when he learned we'd been to Tibet, a destination of his dreams.

The residence was packed with outdoor recreation equipment and he confided he'd always been active in Eagle Scouts and Boy Scouts. The sleeping bags were evidence he also liked to camp.

All that explained the specially-packed classes containing eight volumes each of Great Books. Everything from Aristotle and Plato to Goethe and Dostoyevsky. Hutchins had also instituted that study course and I'd taken classes based on his Great Books programme while in college.

Our 50-cent guidebook in hand, we proceed out of Reno across the first ridge of mountains driving highway 431 past the ski slope at Mount Rosa, then along Route 28 through Incline Village and on to Tahoe Vista where the sign Franciscan Lakeside Lodge appeared on the shoreline side.

My very first question to Mary, the personable woman on desk duty, was: "Was this formerly owned by the Franciscans as a retreat centre?" Somehow the neat row of cottages stretched out along the beach had that look.

"No. Almost everyone asks that question. It was started by people from San Francisco who like to call themselves Franciscans", was the answer.

"Cottages and two-storey, motel-like units behind them and across the road in the woods are individually owned. Some, not all, are available for rent when owners aren't using the accommodations themselves."

We were given keys to three cottages and set out to examine them, settling on cottage No. 12. Edging into late October was definitely off-season here, but the weather was absolutely gorgeous. Sunny days, moonlit nights and a photo-worthy collection of golden aspen scattered among massive pines were at the height of their beauty.

We chose cottage No. 12 because it was available for seven nights, others only four, with weekend arrivals. It had a very comfortable main room about 20 x 20.

A wall of kitchen cabinets, stove, microwave, fridge, dishwasher and coffeemaker line one wall. There were two days beds and locally-made, western-style lodgepole pine furniture included a large rocking chair, coffee table, dining table and rustic pine chairs, as well as a gas log fireplace.

Everything about the decor created a sense of place, a nostalgic mood. Vintage area photos were mounted in pine frames. Wrought-iron light fixtures featured bears, as did a coat rack and light switches of handcrafted wrought-iron pine cones, evergreen trees and wildlife.

A comfortably-sized bathroom with shower and a bedroom, again with locally-made pine furniture, fun quilt and two large closets completed the layout. All very cosy.

But the main selling point was the view of Lake Tahoe, an absolute knockout. This extraordinary scene stretched out before you in a 180-degree panorama, which was impossible to capture on film.

A wall of windows and sliding glass door faced the lake, with two side windows offering truly dazzling views in all directions. Rimmed by mountains, this incomparable lake 22 miles long and 12 wide has a surface area of 192 square miles.

Jim was immediately sold on the location for all seven nights, but I hesitated, starting with only four, wondering if road noise would be disturbing. By next morning, we marched up to the office and reserved for all seven nights. The setting was so spectacular we found it hard to leave, even to shop or sightsee.

What a magical time to come. A few owners arrived over the weekend, but otherwise we had the place entirely to ourselves. It was like being on a cruise ship with a large balcony looking out to sea.

Lake Tahoe is a lake of ever-changing personality, sometimes mirror-like, other times a gentle lapping sound, even waves attracting surfers.

San Diego fires were still burning with ferocity during our visit and one afternoon, 10,000-foot peaks to the south actually disappeared as a smoky haze moved across the lake. Views were never the same. Mornings could start out ominously cloudy, clearing to intense blue by noon.

With so much to see and do in the area, we're already planning an encore. Next week we'll follow the superbly scenic 72-mile drive around the lake and even discover some casinos.

Travel factfile: Off-season rate for our cottage was $165 per night, $235 high season, plus tax. Other smaller units were less, larger ones more. Open year-round. Ski discounts available. Check the very well-illustrated web site www.franciscanlodge.com

Be warned, waterfront units are so popular, regulars line up at the office to make reservations in early January on the day owners release dates they will be available. But we love the solitude of off-season when they're more available.

Next week: Tally-ho around Tahoe