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Mouthwatering twist:–East-West Country ribs

Marinating country pork ribs in an Asian-style barbecue saucefor eight to 12 hours gives the meat plenty of time to take on thesauce's rich color and complex flavors.
COLE'S COOKING A TO Z by Annette GoochExcellent barbecued ribs, pork or beef, are a cook's reward for keeping the fire consistently cool and smoky and the meat basted throughout the cooking period.Virtually every region of the country claims its ribs are the finest and its particular barbecue sauce the best.

COLE'S COOKING A TO Z by Annette Gooch

Excellent barbecued ribs, pork or beef, are a cook's reward for keeping the fire consistently cool and smoky and the meat basted throughout the cooking period.

Virtually every region of the country claims its ribs are the finest and its particular barbecue sauce the best.

The West Coast is no exception, although in this area barbecue styles are so varied as to defy easy comparison or simple classification.

A mouthwatering example is the marinade and basting sauce for East-West Country Ribs.

Combining classic Asian seasonings and condiments with fresh fruit juice and other ingredients commonly associated with California cuisine, this sauce represents a delectable fusion of Pacific Rim and American approaches to barbecue.

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The following ingredients are available in the Asian foods aisle of most larger supermarkets, at many natural food stores, and at markets that specialize in ingredients for Asian cooking:

— Hoisin sauce is a sweet, spiced full-bodied soybean product used in northern Chinese cooking as a condiment and sauce ingredient. It is sold in jars and cans, and keeps well indefinitely when tightly capped and stored in the refrigerator.

— Roasted sesame oil (sometimes labelled "Chinese" or "dark" sesame oil) is easily recognised by its rich amber colour and nutty aroma. Produced by pressing the oil from toasted sesame seeds, this product is typically used as a seasoning ingredient rather than for cooking.

— Mirin is a mild-tasting sweet Japanese rice wine used to flavour sauces, salad dressings and desserts.

The sauce for these barbecued country-style ribs doubles as a marinade and basting sauce for the ribs. Unlike many traditional American barbecue sauces, however, this one is not intended for serving at the table.

The country ribs called for in the recipe (the rib end of a butterflied pork loin) don't require tenderising, but need eight to 12 hours' marinating time to flavour them.

BARBECUED COUNTRY RIBS WITH EAST-WEST SAUCE

1 piece country ribs (5 to 6 pounds)

2 cups East-West Sauce (recipe below)

1. Place ribs in non-aluminum bowl or baking pan. Reserve about half of the East-West Sauce, storing it in a lidded jar and refrigerating it until the ribs have marinated and are ready for the grill. Use your clean hands to rub the remaining sauce into the ribs; cover and refrigerate for eight to 12 hours.

2. Prepare fire in a lidded outdoor grill for the indirect-heat method of cooking. If using a gas grill, presoak hardwood chips to add to the fire; if using a charcoal grill, presoak hardwood chunks.

When fire is ready, place chips or chunks on hot coals. Meanwhile, remove ribs and the reserved sauce from refrigerator and allow both to stand at room temperature to warm slightly. Remove any excess sauce from ribs; discard used sauce.

3. Allow the temperature of the cooking surface of the grill to cool to an even 225 degrees. Remove ribs from bowl. Place ribs on preheated grill rack directly over coals and brown on both sides (about five minutes per side). Then place ribs over indirect heat, bone side down.

Baste ribs with some of the reserved sauce; close lid. Cook, maintaining a constant cooking temperature of 225 degrees and basting ribs with some of the reserved sauce about every ten minutes. After 30 minutes turn ribs.

Continue to cook another 30 minutes, basting and turning ribs about every ten minutes. When done, ribs should be fork-tender (approximately one to 1 ½ hours total cooking time).

4. Remove ribs from grill; let rest for ten minutes. Slice between rib bones and serve immediately.

Serves six to eight.

The Chinese and Japanese ingredients in this barbecue sauce give it a decidedly Asian flair. It is particularly good for flavouring pork or beef, but also can be used for chicken and fish.

EAST-WEST SAUCE

1 cup hoisin sauce (half of a 16-ounce bottle)

½ cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 tablespoon dry sherry

2 tablespoons roasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons prepared Dijon mustard

1 ½ tablespoons minced garlic

Half of one lemon, juiced

Pepper, to taste

½ teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon fennel seed, crushed

1 tablespoon mirin

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients; mix well.

Makes approximately 2 ¼ cups.