spinach, to mustard and turnip greens. African Americans seem to come up with the best recipes.

*** GREENS AND OKRA Yield: 6 to 8 servings 2 cups chopped ham 3 cups water 4 bunches collard greens 1 tablespoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 or 2 dried cayenne pepper pods to taste 8 to 12 small okra, stemmed IN a heavy pot or Dutch oven, simmer the ham in the water until it is tender and the fat dissolves, 15 to 20 minutes.

Cut the tough stems and yellow leaves from the greens and discard. Gently rub the leaves with your fingers under warm running water. Cut the greens into large pieces. Let the leaves soak in warm, salted water for 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water and drain in a colander.

Add the salt, sugar, and peppers to the ham, then add the greens. Stir every 15 minutes until the greens are wilted but not quite tender, 30 to 45 minutes.

Layer the okra on top of the greens. Cover and continue cooking the greens and okra for 20 minutes or until tender, stirring occasionally and adding hot water as needed to prevent the greens from sticking.

*** KALE WITH TOMATO AND ONION Yield: 8 servings 11 pounds fresh kale, washed, stems and yellow leaves removed, and torn into small pieces 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 cup chopped tomato 3 cup chopped onion 2 teaspoons lemon juice 1 clove garlic, minced 3 teaspoon black pepper PUT the wet, freshly washed kale in a large Dutch oven. Cook, uncovered, over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes, until wilted and tender. No added water is needed, as greens give off their own liquid.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over moderate heat until it is hot but not smoking. Add the tomato and onion and cook, stirring constantly, until the vegetables are tender, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the cooked kale, lemon juice, garlic, and pepper. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring constantly.

*** GREENS AND TURNIPS Yield: 4 to 6 servings 3 pounds fresh turnips greens 1 pound white turnips, peeled and diced 1 quart water 1 pound salt pork, sliced 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon black pepper CUT the tough stems and yellow leaves from the greens and discard. Gently clean the greens under warm running water and cut them into large pieces. Let the leaves soak in warm, salted water for 10 minutes. rinse with cool water and drain in a colander.

Put the turnips and greens in a large pot and add water to cover. Cover and simmer over low heat. In a small skillet, fry the salt pork until brown, about 5 minutes. Pour the meat and its fat onto the vegetables. Add the salt and pepper and cover. Simmer over low heat for 2 hours, or until the greens are tender.

*** MUSTARDS AND TURNIP GREENS Yield: 8 to 10 servings 2 ham hocks 2 quarts water 3 pounds mustard greens 4 pounds turnips greens 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce PLACE the ham hocks in a large pot. Cover with the water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 2 hours.

Cut the tough stems and yellow leaves from the greens and discard. Gently rub the leaves with your fingers under warm running water until clean. Cut the greens into large pieces. Let the leaves soak in warm, salted water for 10 minutes. Rinse with cool water and drain in a colander.

Skim any fat from the liquid in which the ham hocks were cooked. Remove the hocks and cut the meat into bite-size pieces, discarding the skin and bones.

Return the meat to the pot and add the sugar and Tabasco sauce. Add as many greens as will fit in the pot. Cover and cook down until the greens are wilted, then add more greens until all the greens are in the pot. Continue cooking, covered, about 11 hours.

*** SWEET-AND-SOUR CABBAGE Yield: 6 servings 1 medium head cabbage, cored and shredded 1 cup water 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons white vinegar 1 tablespoon butter PUT the cabbage, water, and salt in a medium saucepan. Cover and simmer over moderate heat for 10 minutes. Add the sugar, flour, vinegar, and butter; mix well. Cook until the cabbage is tender, 5 to 10 minutes.

All recipes from The African-American Kitchen