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World’s top wine brands on offer at Burrows Lightbourn

Ancient art: Miguel Torres, president and managing director of Torres winery in Spain and Chile

Last week I mentioned that the Catena winery in Argentina placed second overall on the Drinks International’s list of the world’s top 50 most respected wine brands.

To arrive at this, masters of wine, master sommeliers, wine buyers, journalists, and industry experts from six continents sit on a panel. They consider quality, consistency, ratio of price to quality, strength of the brand and marketing. As there could be 200,000 to consider, the chance of being listed is as low as one in four thousand! As Burrows Lightbourn was fortunate to have quite a few, today I will just share what they had in the top ten.

Penfolds from Australia placed third overall and we stock a wide range from them that suit all occasions. For everyday enjoyment try their 2018 Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz that can be yours for $23.40. It shows a garnet, crimson red colour and a fruity and appealing nose with giveaway Penfolds’ markers – wafts of white chocolate above a base of meaty pan scrapings. Appealing Christmas cake spices (cinnamon and nutmeg) laced with juniper and dark red cherry fruits follow. There is no overt oak to speak of. This is a medium-bodied release with the spicy and vibrant notes expected of this variety. An even, balanced structure, with a cranberry bite and a crisp and defined finish. Concealed oak and tannins lurk in the background, and it is eminently approachable. (Stock #7205).

Now we spend $60 and move up to 2019 Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz that garners excellent 95-point scores from three reviews. It is a cool-climate shiraz from the unique terra rossa soils of Coonawarra. Bin 128 explores savoury notes and deep complexity. With each vintage release this cool-climate shiraz provides an interesting counterpoint to the more opulent and richly concentrated warm climate Bin 28 Shiraz.

Bin 128 comprises fruit sourced from a region that exemplifies the perfume, transparency, and seductive nature of cool-climate red table wines. Coonawarra has remained the source of shiraz fruit for Bin 128 since the inaugural release of the 1962 vintage. In order to further enhance the regional qualities of Bin 128, the wine is matured in a mixture of new and seasoned French oak hogsheads, élevage that was made during the 1980s when the transition was made from American to French oak. Élevage, a winemaker’s term, is usually – like terroir – left untranslated, but roughly it means “bringing up the wine to the point of bottling”. (Stock #7218).

Torres, one of three Spanish wineries on the list that we represent, placed fourth just after Penfolds. They make some of our world’s highest rated wines, but for today I am going to suggest an inexpensive red and white, organically produced for everyday occasions. The Torres “Vinyarets” range of wines is an invitation to discover the traditional vineyards of Penedès and a tribute to their origins and winemaking legacy. These are wines made using indigenous varieties that show off the diversity, richness, and uniqueness of this ancient land, a mosaic of vines lying between the sea and mountains that form niches of exceptional beauty.

The grapes come from small, well-established organic vineyards over 30 years old, grown mainly using traditional bush training in chalky clay soils. With 2,700 years of winemaking history to its name, making it the oldest winemaking region in Catalonia, DO Penedès is a broad, open appellation that stretches across a swathe of land between the sea and mountains, midway between Barcelona and Tarragona. The influence of the sun and the Mediterranean Sea makes Penedès an exceptional region for wine-growing. Its unique nature is responsible for the diversity of DO Penedès wines, with the differences in climate, landscape and soil resulting in a thousand flavours and aromas.

Our 2020 Torres Vinyarets White is produced from the xarel-lo grape that gives it a straw colour with subtle golden highlights. It is delicate and elegant on the nose, with lovely fruit undertones reminiscent of apricot jam and rosemary honey. Delightfully silky, balanced, substantial, and pleasant. It is highly recommended with hors d'oeuvres and rice dishes. An excellent match for fish, especially halibut or wahoo with a vegetable garnish, it also pairs perfectly with recipes featuring fresh herbs like basil or parsley. $22.10 (Stock #9429).

To create the 2020 Torres VinyaretsRed the winery blends garnacha (grenache), tempranillo and sumoll, which results in a bright, brilliant ruby red and a captivating nose with fine floral (wild rose) and fruit (red cherry) notes. Velvety and flavourful, with a backbone of very aromatic fruit tannins, the palate unfolds with great length, leaving traces of dried fruit and creamy notes (caramel coffee). Delicate and pleasing rather than powerful. A versatile wine that pairs perfectly with all kinds of appetisers and main courses. It goes particularly well with light dishes, charcuterie, tuna, carpaccio, and tapas, as well as pasta and risotto. I have no ratings on this vintage but both red and white from 2019 scored 90 points with James Suckling. $22.10 (Stock #9430).

Ninth place overall was taken by one of the best known biodynamic and organic producers in France, and so from Michel Chapoutier let us try 2020 Chapoutier Gigondas Les Jocasses and experience grenache, syrah and mourvèdre as they produce a very intense, beautiful ruby red hue. The nose is powerful and shows great finesse. The alternation of strawberry jam aromas and spicy/peppery notes creates a very pleasant bouquet. Floral, then spicy (pepper) notes on entry. The wine displays a superb tannic structure and lovely long-lingering flavours. A “first cousin” to Chateauneuf du Pape for sure, but less strain on the pocketbook at $39.50 (Stock #9424). Organic.

We end with one of my favourite grapes as we describe to you the organic 2020 Chapoutier Domaine des Granges de Mirabel Viognier. It’s fresh, round and, once past the yellow-green colour, it expresses fine aromas of apricots, pears and orange marmalade. The mouthfeel is round with hints of the volcanic soil on which the vines grow. Excellent with Asian dishes and even exotic fruit desserts. As I detect hints of the summer to come, this is just perfect. $24.55 (Stock #9454).

This column is an advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available at www.wineonline.bm

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Published April 21, 2023 at 7:54 am (Updated April 21, 2023 at 7:54 am)

World’s top wine brands on offer at Burrows Lightbourn

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