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A new generation of designers, craftsmen

*** It was master craftsman, painter and social reformer, William Morris, who defined art as `man's expression of his joy in labour'. Even then, in late 19th century England, mass production was gaining ascendancy,

September 18.

*** It was master craftsman, painter and social reformer, William Morris, who defined art as `man's expression of his joy in labour'. Even then, in late 19th century England, mass production was gaining ascendancy, with only the wealthy classes able to afford the hand-made products of Morris and his contemporaries.

The same is true now, and Bermuda, with its solid core of wealth, would appear to be the ideal place to nurture and support the emergence of a new generation of designers and master craftsmen. Fortunately, there seems to be a renaissance of talent among young people here who are devoting their lives to the creation of objects whose utility is matched by their beauty.

Two such artists are Raj Tolaram and James Constable, who have combined their considerable talents to stage a joint show at the Masterworks Gallery.

The result is one of the more unusual shows we have seen amidst the plethora of would-be artists who have been touting their wares all over Bermuda recently.

Although the two work in entirely different media -- jewellery and furniture -- they share the same commitment to technique, obviously learned the hard way (some might say, the only way) -- fine teaching backed by years of gruelling application. There is, too, a shared theme -- that of Asian influences -- but in both cases, so subtle an influence and realisation that it merely adds another dimension rather than dominating each design.

The work of Raj Tolaram is dazzling in every sense: his jewellery designs, spectacular enough with his dramatic `chokers' ("my speciality'') which turn out to have reversible designs (depending as much on one's mood as one's outfit, presumably), which are fashioned in a gorgeous array of gems, precious and semi-precious stones that are often elaborately carved. He describes his designs as embracing the traditions of 17th century India as well as the classic lines seen in European jewellery: the effect is superbly crafted work which hints at the exotic.

Perhaps the most spectacular piece is his Peacock Choker, with nine rows of cultured freshwater pearls, graduated in size to follow the contour of the neck, cradling a large central plaque of rose cut diamonds with an emerald drop bead and set in 22 carat gold. On the reverse, and quite as beautiful, is an Eastern-style design in myriad colours in smooth, glass enamel.

Another pearl choker boasts an unusually large, lightly hued and carved aquamarine set in a square of large diamonds in a gold base, the enamel reverse revealing a clover design in red and white.

Exquisitely crafted is his hand-carved tourmaline and diamond `Lotus' brooch, the diamonds scattered in a delicate filigree design, and the simple, albeit huge, carved and smoky-hued sapphire with a gold and diamond attachment on just one strand of lustrous pearls.

There are wonderful earrings in heavy gold and impressive, square cut emeralds, as well as several bracelets crafted in diamonds, pearls and emeralds.

The furniture of James Constable is distinguished by its purity and simplicity of line and his use of beautiful, often rare, hardwood.

His apprenticeship under a Chinese master craftsman has left its mark, not only in his predilection for an Asian influence in his design, but in the technical application. This is perhaps best seen in his solid, trestle Table/Desk, crafted in valuable bubinga wood from South America, the contrasting purple heart wood butterfly joints down the centre providing dramatic decorative relief.

His Bermudian wife, Jennifer, assists in both the design and building of their pieces and she has, in fact, designed several of the pieces. One of these is a splendid `Shaker' design China Cabinet; moving right away from the traditional dark mahogany, `antique' concept, this one is particularly striking, crafted in pale North American cherry wood which has been painstakingly matched to reveal the full beauty of the wood's grain.

She has also designed the very reasonably priced pair of Ottoman/Side Tables, made of purple heart wood. The graceful convex legs support a surface that may be used as a seat (it comes complete with fitting cushion) or as a small table with handles.

Mr. Constable's sliding-door Display Cabinet is made of `wormy' maple, a rare and beautiful golden-toned wood with a distinctive grain. An unusual feature of the design is that the doors may be left open or backed with fabric.

Another fine exhibit is their Low Table of cherry wood with bubinga inlay. A glass top covers a checker wood design and the table top itself `floats' on six small dowels.

If some of these pieces appear expensive (labour-intensive work in expensive materials), every one is already a collector's item, an instant heirloom that will eventually take its place in the already long line of Bermudian craftsmanship, a line that stretches back to Bermuda's very beginnings.

PATRICIA CALNAN EMERALDS ARE FOREVER -- The `Tolly' Choker, by Raj Tolaram, with its large carved central emerald, surrounded by diamonds and smaller emeralds on five rows of pearls, one of the items on show in his joint exhibition with furniture designers James and Jennifer Constable.