The reason there are so many Danish cookies in the world at Christmas-time is that if visitors to the house during the holidays leave without tasting them, they will carry the Christmas spirit away. Or so the Danes believe. Decrease your risks by making your own highly spiced versions. No two Danish cooks use exactly the same recipes or the same amount of spice, but these recipes will give you a point of departure. They make huge batches of cookies, to help you get through the holidays: PEPPERNUTS (Pebernodder) 1 cup corn syrup 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 cup sweet butter 31/2 cups flour 1 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon cinnamon grated rind of 1 lemon pinch of baking soda Boil syrup, butter and sugar in a saucepan. When cool, sift in dry ingredients. Dough must be allowed to stand for 48 hours, preferably in a warm place. Knead dough again and roll out to 1/2-inch thickness. Cut into small pieces and form into balls. Place on greased cookie sheet and bake in moderate oven (350 degrees F) 5 to 7 minutes, or until light brown. Makes 400. BROWN CAKES (Brune Kager) 1/2 cup dark corn syrup 5 tablespoons dark brown sugar 4 tablespoons sweet butter 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 11/2 cups flour 1 teaspoon ground cloves 11/4 teaspoons ground cardamom 11/4 teaspoons grated lemon peel 3 ounces almonds Heat syrup, sugar and butter in a saucepan until sugar is dissolved. Cool. Sift baking soda, flour and ground cloves together into a large bowl. Add cardamom, grated lemon peel, then the lukewarm syrup mixture, and knead well for about 5 to 10 minutes, until the dough is smooth and shiny. Wrap in waxed paper and store in cool place for 2 hours or more. Roll out very thin on a lightly floured surface, then cut into round shapes with a wineglass, or into diamonds, squares, shapes of little men, women, hearts, etc., with cutters or a knife.

Lay out cookies about an inch apart on a greased baking sheet, then press an almond into the centre of each. Bake in a 400-degree F oven for 5 to 6 minutes, until they are light gold. Let them cool on the baking sheet. Makes about 72.