been my best appetiser at the hotel,'' he says.

Exarchos added a tablespoon of tomato paste to colour the fresh tomato sauce but that's unnecessary if you have very ripe tomatoes.

This can be prepared in advance, to top with cheese and heat in the oven just before dinner.

SHRIMP AND FETA CHEESE WITH TOMATOES 25 large shrimp 4 tablespoons pure olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 1/2 stalk celery, finely chopped About 1 pound fresh tomatoes Salt, pepper 8 oz. feta cheese, sliced thin or crumbled 2 tablespoons ouzo or brandy PEEL shrimp and remove the black vein along the back. Wash with cold water and pat dry.

Heat half the olive oil in a saute pan. Saute the onion and celery until golden.

In another saute pan, heat the remaining olive oil. Add shrimp. Saute for approximately four minutes, just until pink. Do not overcook.

Pour onions and celery over shrimp. Add tomatoes and continue cooking for 8 to 10 more minutes. Add ouzo or brandy, heat, then carefully touch a match to the surface to burn off the alcohol.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into five individual earthenware or ceramic ramekins or into one larger shallow baking dish. Top with feta cheese and bake in preheated 350 degree oven until cheese has melted, 8 to 10 minutes. Serves 5 to 6.

Greek salads are usually large, almost a meal in themselves. The greens are often shredded. This version includes green olives and artichoke hearts.

Toasted pine nuts flavour the salad dressing.

GREEK GARDEN SALAD 2 heads baby romaine, washed, patted dry, thinly sliced 2 heads round-heart lettuce (such as Boston lettuce) 1 bunch arugula, washed 5 scallions, thinly sliced 20 artichoke hearts 1 cup small green Greek olives, pitted, chopped coarsely Salad dressing: Juice of 2 medium-size lemons, about 1/4 cup 1/4 cup virgin olive oil 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted 1 teaspoon honey Salt and freshly ground pepper CUT lettuces into chunks or tear into smaller pieces. Or slice the greens very thin, as they do in Greece. Toss with onions, quartered artichoke hearts (either canned or cooked frozen artichoke hearts or fresh artichoke hearts) and olives. (Chef Exarchos trims fresh baby artichokes, removes the choke and rinses them in water with lemon juice, to retard darkening, and slices them into the salad.) Put lemon juice, olive oil, pine nuts and honey into blender and blend well, chopping the pine nuts. Season to taste with salt. Sprinkle salad with pepper, then toss lightly, then pour dressing over salad and toss well.

Makes 10 servings.