many delightful sweets from cakes and cookies -- many of which are made from old family secret recipes. Here are a few recipes from `Ken Haedrich, Simple Desserts'.

*** STEAMED BLACK CHOCOLATE CAKE Makes 8 servings 1 cup strong brewed coffee 1 cup molasses, 1 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 4 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 large eggs, lightly beaten 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 3 cup finely chopped walnuts BUTTER and flour a 41 - by 81 -inch loaf pan. Put about 11 inches of water in a covered pot large enough to hold the loaf pan. Place a small rack in the pot for the loaf pan to sit on. Bring the water to a boil then turn off the heat.

Heat the coffee, molasses, and butter in a heavy medium saucepan. When the butter has melted, remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Wait for 5 minutes, until the chocolate melts, then remove from the heat. Whisk to smooth, then cool for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, whisk in the vanilla and eggs.

In a large bowl, sift together the dry ingredients then mix in the chopped nuts. Make a well in the dry mixture then add the liquid. Stir until evenly blended.

Wait for 5 minutes, stir briefly, then scrape the batter into the buttered pan. Cover very snugly with a piece of buttered foil, then enclose the entire pan with one long sheet of foil, crimping the seams to keep water out. Place the pan on the rack. Check the level of the water; it shouldn't come up any higher than halfway on the pan. turn the heat on and bring to simmer.

Steam the cake, covered tightly, for 2 hours over very low heat; the water should barely simmer, not boil. Keep the lid on the pot; don't be tempted to fuss over or check it, though you should check the water level once after an hour, and add more if necessary. After 2 hours, pull back the foil and insert a tester in the centre of the cake. It should come out clean.

Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes. Run a knife around the edge, then invert onto a plate. Cool to room temperature before slicing and serving. Keep leftovers covered, in the fridge - this cake is a good keeper.

*** BUTTERMILK CHOCOLATE CAKE WITH MOCHA CHOCOLATE GLAZE Makes 16 to 20 servings 8 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature 11 cups sugar 5 large eggs, at room temperature 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 21 cups sifted unbleached all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup buttermilk Here's some recipes for delicious desserts MOCHA CHOCOLATE GLAZE 1 cup strong black coffee 4 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped PREHEAT the oven to 325 degrees F. Butter and flour a large, 12-cup (10-inch) bundt pan, preferably nonstick. Set aside.

Put the chocolate in the top of a double boiler and melt it over, not in, very hot water. Whisk to smooth then set aside. Meanwhile cream the butter in a large bowl using an electric mixer. Add the sugar gradually, beating on high speed. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. With the mixer on low speed beat in the vanilla and melted chocolate.

Sift the flour a second time with the cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. With the mixer on low, alternately add the buttermilk and dry ingredients to the creamed mixture, beginning and ending with the dry ingredients.

When the batter is blended, turn it into the prepared pan and even the top with a spoon. Bake in the centre of the oven for about 60 minutes, or until a tester comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan, on a rack, for 10 minutes, then invert the cake onto a large cake platter.

When the cake has cooled make the glaze: Melt the chocolate with the coffee over very hot water in the top of a double boiler. Whisk to smooth, then wait several minutes so the glaze thickens slightly. Spoon the glaze over the cake, covering as much of the surface as possible. Slice and serve.

Store the cake covered, in a cool spot; a foil tent will do if you haven't a dome lid.

*** FRENCH SUGAR CAKE Makes 10 servings DOUGH 1 package (1 scant tablespoon) active dry yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 21 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1 -inch pieces 1 cup milk 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 teaspoon vanilla extract TOPPING 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 2 tablespoons sugar IN a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the water. Set aside.

In the bowl of a food processor, combine the flour, sugar, and salt. Pulse briefly to mix. Add the butter and pulse the machine several more times, until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Add the milk, egg, and vanilla to the yeast. With the processor running, add the liquid in a stream until the dough pulls together in a damp mass, about 10 seconds.

Empty the contents onto a lightly floured counter and knead gently about 15 times. Shape the dough into a ball then flatten it into a disk about 3 inch thick. Slip the dough into a plastic bag and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough into a large circle or oval about 1 inch thick. Transfer to a lightly buttered baking sheet. turn 1 inch of the perimeter under, and flatten it with the times of a fork to make a slightly raised, decorative edge. Set aside in a cool spot for 15 minutes.

Adjust your oven rack to the centre position and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F.

For the topping, smear the butter over the entire surface, then sprinkle with the sugar. Poke the surface with a fork several times (to let off steam trapped below). Bake for 15 minutes, until the cake is golden brown all over.

Check about midway through, to make sure it isn't puffing up in the centre. If so, poke again with a fork.

Slide the cake onto a rack and cool briefly before slicing. Wrap leftovers in a plastic bag.

*** PUMPKIN BREAD PUDDING WITH WARM CHOCOLATE SAUCE Makes 4 large or 8 small servings 31 cups (4 to 5 slices) bread, cut into 3 -inch cubes 3 cup canned pumpkin 4 egg yolks 11 cups light cream 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons light brown sugar 1 teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground nutmeg, and ground ginger 1 tablespoon bourbon or liqueur 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon salt Chocolate Sauce Cut the bread and transfer it to a bowl; set aside.

In the bowl of a food processor combine the remaining ingredients except for the 3 extra tablespoons of brown sugar. Pulse the machine just until blended, or whisk the ingredients by hand in a regular bowl.

Pour about half of the custard mixture over the bread and toss.Set aside for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Meanwhile, generously butter up to eight 1 -cup ramekins, or four 1-cup ramekins (the latter will give you a pretty substantial dessert).

Divide the saturated bread cubes evenly among the baking dishes. Stir the remaining custard then spoon it evenly over the bread. Sprinkle a little of the remaining brown sugar over each. Put the ramekins in a large, shallow casserole then pour enough very hot water into the casserole to come about halfway up the sides of the dishes.

Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 degrees F. and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes for the smaller dishes, or 25 to 30 minutes for the larger ones. When done, they'll puff just slightly and the centres may seem a tad underdone; that's okay. They'll finish cooking as they sit.

Transfer the dishes to a rack and let them sit for 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Serve with chocolate sauce.