So Christmas has gone the New Year's celebrations are over and activity level in the garden is minimal, so we have time to consider the year ahead and plan the garden calendar accordingly.

First and foremost let's define what garden maintenance should really be and not what presently appears to be maintenance. Back to basics is a good rule of thumb when in doubt; as I have often stated most maintenance tasks should be carried out on an 'as and when' required basis. Observation is by far the best method of developing programmes for it is by such means that problems are noted early and thus acted upon immediately, thereby reducing the impact and spread of the problem. This approach is simply an early warning system which reduces the major problems so often found in 'neglected' gardens.

Breaking down the maintenance into tasks will create a far better understanding of what is required from a maintenance programme than the usual 'deal with it when it gets out of hand' approach. Let's examine a general task list around the garden. Pruning, tree surgery, raking, weeding, fertilising, mowing, aerating, pest and disease control, planting, weed control hard landscaping.

Pruning is an activity that is determined on the landscape design, in other words when planted too close together plants will produce upright growth and not 'natural' growth this is especially so in hedge plantings. When planted at on centre plantings to allow growth to be lateral and upright the shape of the plant is far different, therefore so is the pruning technique. I prefer to prune no more than three times per year when working with foundation planting; for Lantana, Plumbago, Pentas, etc, dead heading is ongoing.

Tree surgery is often required on large specimen trees, which outwardly appear in good health, but when examined closely are found to have rot or broken branches which need attention. Early diagnosis is important in such cases if one is to keep the tree healthy and thus remain as a specimen and important part of the landscape. Have large trees checked at least once every other year; the small cost of inspection will be much less than having to replace the tree when it has to be removed.

Raking is a simple task but can cause problems in flower beds. It is also good to remember the different style of rake and their purpose; the iron rake – which looks like a comb – is basically a soil rake and is used for grading, whereas the fan-shaped rake is used for raking leaves and miscellaneous debris. The problem with numerous user of this type of rake is simply that they are too heavy handed, and remove soil with the horticultural material each and every time they rake the flower beds. After a year or two this action starts to expose plant roots which in time are detrimental to good growth.

Weeding should be carried out on a regular basis, not just when weeds grow to become unsightly; if you weed when no weeds are seen, you will never have any weeds. This simply means by breaking the soil surface on a regular basis small germinating weeds are immediately destroyed; the best tool for this is in my opinion the Dutch hoe, which is pushed through the soil lightly to break the upper crust of soil.

Plants will often grow even if neglected until no nutrients are left and this causes their demise. Fertiliser is the food which keeps plants growing and therefore within reason healthy and vigorous. Good-looking plants become even better looking when given a fertiliser regime, timing is however important both from a seasonal as well as climatic application. Do not fertilise during hot dry periods when plants could be stressed especially when the temperature tops 85 degrees. Read the label instructions for application rates these are usually seen as an NPK ratio which is nitrogen, phosphate and potash look also for what are called trace or minor elements, these being iron, magnesium, manganese, zinc etc. Always apply as directed and remember the adage, 'if all else fails, read the instructions'; many plants are killed by over fertilising.

Mowing should be carried out on an 'as and when' required basis, with the height of cut being determined by the type of grass; it is easier to mow and more visually attractive to have a lawn with only one type of grass. Broad leaved grasses such as St. Augustine and its hybrids are best cut to a height of three inches, whereas the Bermuda grasses can be cut to one and one half inches or less if desired. For finer bladed grasses such as Zoysia and hybrid Bermuda, to obtain a low tight cut one should use a reel machine, the higher the number of cuttings blades the finer the cut. In tandem with mowing and as part of lawn maintenance, aerating with a verticutter or hollow tine machine relieves compaction problems and when done in conjunction with low spring mowing to reduce thatch gives lawns a good start to the season.

Observation is the best form of attack for pest and disease control, whereby problems are noticed in the early stages and dealt with immediately, reducing the possibility of heavier infestations or fungal spread. Repeat applications should be carried out as per the instruction label.

To get the best results from a plant be it a seedling or a tree, the installation of the plant will be critical in its success. Preparation of the planting hole and the planting mix being critical for this exercise; the plants root ball should be moist and not pot bound at time of planting as well as being free from pest and disease. The size of planting hole will be determined by the pot size, soil conditions and type of plant, as roots need room to grow a good depth of soil is required for root establishment and plant growth. Once planted, water in for a period of time until foliage stands up and does not flag after a couple of dry days. Do not plant in windy conditions and preferably not between the months of January and March, November and December can be questionable but have been relatively warm and storm free this year.

Hard landscapes as with any area in Bermuda require attention, with regard to weed growth chemical spray applications can be carried out in most areas, but not for example near swimming pools, play areas, etc. Keeping control of weed growth in non-landscape areas will reduce the risk of weed seeds spreading from the parent plant and thus creating unnecessary problems in flower beds and lawns. Many weeds grow; flower and produce seed in a short period of time, controlling this cycle will assist in reducing weed problems.

Maintenance when scheduled with flexibility in its application will create a superior looking property often with less labour requirements, and that must be a plus in any garden.