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Soccer, samba and slums - Rio has it all

SOCCER and Brazil are almost synonymous. Locals call it “futebol” and its followers fill the world’s largest stadium in Rio with a degree of rambunctious enthusiasm that often makes world headlines.Several versions attempt to explain the sport’s introduction into Brazil. One recalls a young student who returned from studying in England in the late 1890s with two footballs and a rule book.

Another credits immigrant English railroad workers with its introduction. Perhaps both happened almost simultaneously.

Regardless, the sport took off like a bolt of supercharged lightning and residents level of excitement exploded. And that description can be taken quite literally. Fans arrive at stadiums country wide, from Rio’s massive oval Maracana to the smallest town, with a bounding enthusiasm that can be overwhelming.

They come beating giant Samba drums, setting off fireworks, waving flags and banners in a state of near hysteria. The nation’s pulse races in rhythm with the game and the fans are definitely part of the spectacle and of course, famed Pele remains a national hero and that game revered with incredible passion.

There’s always a game going on somewhere and even the bravest tourist is likely to come away blinking their eyes in amazement. Everything you’ve ever read or heard about “futebol” here is absolutely true, in fact understated once viewed in person.

The sports museum inside the Maracana Football Stadium will certainly interest fans. Open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., it features displays of trophies, uniforms, posters and assorted memorabilia of games, as well as a gift shop where fans can pick out a shirt for their collection.

Pele’s famous No. 10 shit is there and his reputation continues to inspire youngsters all over the country.

When Edson Arantes do Nascimento started on the path to fame at the age of 15, the talented slum-born youth didn’t even own a pair of shoes. One year after he signed with the Santos Soccer Club, Pele led the national team to Brazil’s first World Cup win - then another, and another. It’s at Maracana that Pele made his one-thousandth goal.

One guidebook appropriately labelled Brazilian soccer “a quasi psychedelic experience”, especially when it’s between local rivals.

It may come as a shock to those unfamiliar with Brazil’s depressing crime statistics, but there’s more than one reason why acclaimed young soccer stars leave the country. Yes, super-players like Robinho are offered tempting contracts overseas. But there’s also another side to those departures.

It’s not the intention of this column to paint a threatening view of the country, but to alert travellers to conditions existing there for safety’s sake. It would be negligent to do otherwise. You wouldn’t want to arrive without taking precautions and think, “Why weren’t we told?”

Be alert, be conscious of the fact this fascinating country unfortunately has one of the world’s highest crime rates. A recent Wide Angle television presentation on public television focused on that very subject as it affected five mothers of well-paid Brazilian soccer stars (along with other unfortunate victims) who were kidnapped in a six-month period and held for ransom. It was a chilling report.

There are “few countries in the world where the gap between rich and poor is so stark”, they lamented. It continued that “a kidnapping is reported every three days and some regions actually have anti-kidnapping squads”.

Last trip there we added a new word to our vocabulary - “quicknapping”. It’s something that occurs spontaneously when a target appears looking prosperous, wearing something coveted, perhaps even seeming worthy of ransom. Bullet proof cars are also becoming ever more popular.

The favelas, urban shanty towns, have 70 per cent unemployment, no water, no electricity and many live on less than two dollars daily. That situation influenced soccer start Robinho to leave for Madrid to play after his mother was involved in a very tense kidnapping situation.

On a lighter note, let’s focus on something you’re certain to enjoy. If there’s an opportunity to visit a Samba school, do it by all means. Although this will be a bit off their season, it’s worth seeking out. There’s nothing quite like it.

But be careful what you eat. They often serve a meal as part of the visit, and we’d been warned by a doctor who specialised in tropical medicine and had an international reputation in that field, never to eat tripe in a tropical climate because it could be a problem. And, of course, that’s exactly what they did serve.

For a fun shopping experience, consider the Sunday Hippie Fair in Ipanema. It’s one of Rio’s most well-known and offers a great variety of handicrafts - artwork, jewellery, clothing, leather goods, etc.

Our favourite purchase there was an exquisitely made jacaranda walking stick dramatically inlaid with Alpaca-silver. Gorgeous and we have never seen anything like it before or since.

Since Bermuda is so acclaimed for its beaches, seeking one out here won’t be a number one priority. But if you do consider swimming, make inquiries about dangerous rip tides. A journalist we knew blatantly ignored such warnings by locals at a specific Rio beach and was shipped home after drowning.

If you’re looking for a conversation-stopping museum, one few people back home will have ever heard about, how about the one honouring Carmen Miranda who danced and sang her way to Hollywood celebrity in a long list of films?

She’s remembered at the Museum Carmen Miranda which displays her always colourful costumes, elaborate headwear and jewellery, along with photos and the music she brought to the screen.

Strange how some events stay etched in one’s memory years after their happening. On that first trip to Rio in 1974, we were surprised to see signs on walls of buildings reading “Do not urinate on this wall”.

Only days later, a front-page story in the local paper told of a young man apprehended doing just that, who was shot and killed by police. Such an event raised few eyebrows among locals, but stunned visiting press. Have things changed since? Yes, they’ve gotten worse.

Some who arrive with their own security guards (we actually had armed police protection on some segments of our travel there) and are transported around in limos, often come away unaware of the problems. Not so for the average tourist. Remember, our intent here is not to alarm travellers, but to alert them.

Although our preference is always to go off exploring on our own, this is one place where there’s more safety in numbers and signing up for organised sightseeing tours make sense. Having a savvy guide is helpful in such a large, spread-out city.

But, of course, one would certainly not want to limit a Brazilian visit to only Rio because it’s not reflective of all the country and its very diverse personality.

So next week we’re off to Brasilia, the Amazon and Manaus for a more in-depth look at what to expect there.

Subsequently we’ll wind up with a visit to lively, historic Bahia — Salvador which most travellers rate high on their “must see” list.