kitchen. What home cooks want now are meals which are quick, easy and tasty -- especially when it comes to entertaining.

In her cookbook, `Summertime Food', now available at the Bermuda Library, writer and expert cook Miriam Ungerer provides more than 200 flexible, relaxed recipes for everything from hors d'oeuvres to mouth-watering desserts.

Here's a sampling: SAIGON CHICKEN WINGS This recipe is almost entirely technique. Marinate the chicken wings about 8 hours, or overnight.

2 lbs. fresh, small chicken wings Juice of a large lemon 1 cup low sodium teriyaki sauce (or any Japanese soy sauce) 3 fat cloves garlic, pulverised 2 tbsp. Szechuan (hot) chili bean paste CHOP pinions off the wings. With kitchen shears cut skin away from the inside of them and discard -- the marinade will never penetrate the rather tough skin on a chicken's wing otherwise. Dry the pieces.

Mix lemon juice, teriyaki sauce, garlic, and bean paste together, and roll each piece of chicken in this mixture, massaging it in well. Put the pieces into a large plastic bag and pour in the remaining marinade. Twist the bag shut and refrigerate. Turn the bag 2 or 3 times during the day.

Build a good charcoal fire and soak a handful of wood chips (cherry, apple, or hickory are best) in water for half an hour while the fire reaches the optimum cooking condition. It should not be so hot that the chicken skin burns black in the 20 minutes it requires on the grill. The skin should slowly turn brown and crisp; if it starts to blacken, remove the grid entirely and wait until the coals subside. After 5 minutes, turn the wings. After another 5 minutes, turn them again, then lift the grid and throw in the soaked wood chips; replace the grid and clap on the cover. (If you don't care for a smoky flavour, omit this step.) Cook with top vents closed for 5 minutes more, then remove the cover and turn the chicken pieces again. Continue grilling for a total of about 20 minutes, turning the chicken often with tongs. (A fork will puncture the skin and release all the juices.) When finished, the chicken should be smoke-like dark with a crisp skin and moist interior. Serves 4.

Serve hot (the crispiness of the skin is lost when they cool) with the following dipping sauce: *** SAIGON DIPPING SAUCE MIX 2 tablespoons of dry wasabi powder with enough cold water to make a stiff paste. Let it mature, covered, for half an hour to develop its fiery flavour.

Whisk as much as you like of it into some soy sauce, a teaspoon of dark Chinese sesame oil, and the juice of half a lemon. Mix in some toasted sesame seeds. Divide this among 4 small, flat dishes so that the wings can be rolled in it by each diner, Japanese style.

*** ICED CHICKEN SOUP 3 cans clear chicken stock (the kind you do not dilute with water) 1 tbsp. minced fresh tarragon 1 cup minced fresh parsley 1 cup heavy cream BRING chicken stock to boiling point, blanch tarragon and parsley. Remove from heat, stir in cream thoroughly, chill for 2 hours. Soup should be quite thin and light textured. Serves 6.

*** ITALIAN HEBREW SOUP 1 lb. cooked beets, fresh or canned 11 qts. salted water 1 tbsp. vinegar 3 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 18 small new potatoes, unpeeled, boiled, and swirled in butter SIMMER beets in salted water and vinegar for 20 minutes. Pass through a sieve or puree in a blender. Beat eggs briskly in a large bowl and pour the beet broth onto them, beating all the time. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and chill. Serve ice cold and give each guests a small bowl of tiny hot boiled potatoes that have been swirled in butter. Eat a little potato with each spoonful of soup.

*** CAESAR SALAD 11 cups crisp, fried croutons 2 tbsp. garlic-flavoured oil 1 clove garlic 1 cup olive oil 1 large head romaine lettuce, rinsed and dried Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 1-minute eggs Juice of a large lemon 8 to 10 anchovy fillets, chopped 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheese FRY croutons in a little garlic flavoured oil until crisp. Drain on paper towels. Puree garlic and mix with olive oil. Tear salad greens into a large bowl. Add salt and pepper to taste. Pour on oil and toss thoroughly. Break eggs into the salad and, with a sweeping gesture, squeeze the lemon juice over it, toss madly again. Add chopped anchovies, croutons and cheese, toss very lightly. Serves 10.

*** SHRIMP GUMBO Traditional gumbo recipes call for long cooking, but the flavour and texture of both shrimp and okra is much nicer with brief cooking.

1 medium onion, sliced 1 green pepper, sliced 2 cups peeled, chopped ripe tomatoes 1 bay leaf 1 sprig thyme Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 lb. fresh okra OR 1 10- oz. pkge. frozen okra 1 lb. shrimp 1 tsp. diced red pepper flakes SAUTE onion and green pepper in a little olive oil. Add tomatoes, herbs, and salt and pepper to taste, and simmer, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Slice okra in 1 -inch rounds, cook for about 5 minutes in the tomato sauce. Peel and clean raw shrimp, cut them in pieces if they are large, and add to the pan. Simmer for 5 minutes. Serve with a bowl of white rice. Serves 4.

*** SPAGHETTI WITH CLAM SAUCE This sauce is made with tiny, tender whole clams or mussels very briefly cooked. It is labour-saving, since you neither have to pry open the clams nor chop them. Small mussels need only a brisk washing, no debearding.

3 qts. littleneck clams OR small mussels 1 lb. butter (1 stick) 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tsp. flour Spaghetti for 4 servings, cooked and hot Minced parsely (optional) Dried red pepper flakes (optional) SCRUB shellfish, put them in a pan with 1 cup water, cover, and set over high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes, until all are opened. Set aside shellfish an strain the broth through cheesecloth to remove any sand.

Reserve 1 cup for the sauce and keep the rest to make Court Bouillon or soup.

Melt the butter in a small, heavy saucepan. Simmer onions and garlic in butter until soft. Do not allow either the butter or the vegetables to brown. Stir in flour and cook, stirring, for 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in clam or mussel broth and whisk over medium heat a couple of minutes. Add shelled clams or mussels and heat through. Toss with hot spaghetti or linguine and more butter if necessary. Strew a little minced parsley over the dish if you like, but never serve cheese with this. A light sprinkle of crushed hot red pepper is an attractive addition. Serves 4.

*** BONED CHICKEN BREASTS WITH MUSHROOMS AND CREAM SAUCE 4 tbsp. butter (1 stick) 2 fryer breasts, split, skinned, and boned 1 lb. fresh mushrooms, sliced Salt and freshly ground pepper Juice of 1 lemon 4 slices dry white toast 1 cup chicken stock 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup heavy cream 1 tbsp. minced fresh tarragon leaves (optional) 2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley HEAT butter in a heavy skillet and add chicken pieces, which have been blotted very dry. Saute on both sides until lightly browned. Add mushrooms, salt, pepper and lemon juice, and shake the pan to distribute them well. Cover securely and turn the heat down very low. After 6 minutes, press the meat with your finger. If it is firm and springy to the touch, it is done. The smallest overcooking will dry and toughen chicken cutlets.

Lay one chicken fillet on each piece of toast, put the plates in a warm oven (hot sauce on cold plates becomes a congealed disaster), and prepare the sauce, which takes about 2 minutes. Add the stock and wine to the sauteeing pan and reduce to a syrup over high heat. Stir in cream and tarragon, if used, and reduce rapidly, stirring constantly, until thick. Pour over the chicken, sprinkle with parsley, and serve. Serves 4.

*** CANNELLONI Lasagne or egg noodles 3 by 4 inches 1 lb. ricotta cheese 1 cup melted butter (2 sticks) 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 3 tbsp. minced fresh marjoram or oregano 1 cup heavy cream COOK the pasta according to the package directions, or until barely tender.

Slip it into cold water as soon as it is cooked. Drain and spread each noodle with about 1 tablespoon of ricotta. Roll up, jelly-roll fashion, and lay each noodle seam side down in a buttered oven-to-table dish. Drizzle melted butter over all. Sprinkle with the grated Parmesan and marjoram. Pour the cream over and around the cheese-filled rolls. Bake in a 400 degrees F. oven 15 minutes, basting frequently with the sauce in the pan to prevent the cannelloni from becoming dry and crusty. When golden, bubbly, and heated through, serve immediately with more grated cheese passed at the table. Serves 3 to 6.

*** MIXED STIR-FRY All the cutting and just a tad of the cooking can be done in advance, but the final cooking is only a 3-minute job.

2 tbsp. olive oil 1 large yellow onion, peeled and coarsely chopped 3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1 long, thin eggplant, about 1 lb., cut into 1 -inch cubes 1 mild Italian green pepper, seeded and cut in large dice 2 large ripe bell peppers, 1 red and 1 yellow, roasted skinned, cut into strips, and mixed with a little oil 2 golden zucchini, about 6 inches long, sliced 2 green zucchini, about 6 inches long, sliced 6 ears bicoloured young corn, shucked and cut from the cob 6 leaves fresh basil, shredded fine Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste PEEL and chop all vegetables and store in separate bags and refrigerate until you're ready to proceed.

Necklace the wok with some of the oil, place over medium-high heat, and add the onion and garlic, while stirring. Cover and cook over low heat for 2 minutes. Raise heat, add eggplant. Stir rapidly to coat, then add green pepper, lower the heat, and cook, covered, for 5 minutes. Remove all to a strainer set over a pot.

Add more oil to the wok, throw in the zucchini and stir-fry over highest heat for about 2 minutes. Add corn. Return eggplant mixture to wok with roasted peppers, tossing and turning together. Sprinkle with shredded basil and salt and pepper to taste. Serve at once. Serves 8 to 10.

*** CHOCOLATE CHINCHILLA MOUSSE This is a light, simple, relatively low-cal chocolate mousse, owing to the absence of egg yolks and flour. It is, in fact, mostly air, and must be served rapidly or turned out after it is cold -- but then it is collapsed, of course.

Served hot with barely whipped brandied cream it is divine.

6 to 7 egg whites, at room temperature Pinch of cream of tartar 1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tbsp. instant espresso powder PREHEAT oven to 350 degrees F.

Butter a 11 -quart souffle m dish or tube pan and coat with superfine sugar.

Chill. Beat egg whites with the cream of tartar until stiff. Sift cocoa, sugar, cinnamon, and espresso powder together, then return it to the sifter.

Sift over the egg whites and fold in by halves. With a broad rubber spatula, scrape this mixture into the buttered and sugared mold and set into another pan half filled with hot water. Bake in the lower third of the oven for 4 minutes. Rush the souffle m to the table and pass some lightly whipped heavy cream, with a little rum or brandy added.

To serve the chinchilla cold, let it cool to room temperature, then turn it out onto a round platter. Decorate with stiffly beaten whipped cream forced through a star tube or other fancy tip of a pasty bag.

*** ALMOND CREME CHANTILLY This is a lovely, airy, almond confection that actually improves overnight, so make it a day before it's to be served.

1 cup whole or chopped blanched almonds 1 cup milk, scalded 2 egg yolks 1 cup sugar Pinch of salt 1 envelope unflavoured gelatin 1 cup cold milk 1 or 2 leaves rose geranium (optional) 1 tbsp. rose flower water 1 cup whipping cream 1 tsp. almond extract, or more Rose geranium leaves, almond slices, raspberries, or halved strawberries (choose one only) TOAST almonds in a dry heavy skillet over low heat for 5 minutes, stirring once or twice. Cool and grind in a food processor. Steep ground almonds in scalding hot milk for a least an hour, covered. Reheat to scalding.

Beat egg yolks with sugar and salt, beat in scalding almond milk, and cook over low heat in a very heavy saucepan until the custard coats a spoon. (Do not boil or the yolks will curdle). Remove from heat.

Soften gelatin in cold milk for 5 minutes, then stir into hot custard along with a rose geranium leaf or two, if desired, and rose flower water. Set aside to cool or stir over ice until cold, which is much quicker and keeps the custard smooth. Whip cream until fairly stiff and flavour with almond extract to taste. Remove geranium leaves and discard. Fold whipped cream into cooled custard, turn it into 6 individual coupe m glasses or a single glass bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and chill overnight. Just before serving, decorate with garnish of your choice.

*** GREAT VANILLA ICE CREAM Gelatin enhances the smoothness of this ice cream, but can be omitted. You can make an almost equally creamy but lower-calorie "ice milk'' with this recipe substituting milk for the half-and-half or light cream. Yield: approx. 2 quarts.

1 cup cold milk 1 envelope unflavoured gelatin (optional) 4 extra-large or jumbo egg yolks 1 cup sugar 1 vanilla bean OR 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 2 cups half-and-half Pinch of salt 2 cups heavy cream POUR milk in a small bowl, add gelatin, set aside to dissolve. Beat egg yolks with sugar until light. Split vanilla bean and scrape contents into the half-and-half, then add the pod halves. Bring to boiling point, cover to steep, off-heat, for 10 minutes. (You may wish to use more or less of the bean as vanilla beans vary wildly). Remove, rinse, and dry vanilla bean for another use (e.g., bury it sugar to sue for baking or pour vodka or brandy on the split bean and store it in a small bottle to make your own vanilla "extract''). Add a pinch of salt to yolks and sugar and beat hot vanilla cream into them with a whisk. Cook over moderate heat in a heavy saucepan, stirring constantly, until custard coats a wooden spoon. This stage is reached when a finger drawn across the spoon leaves a definite trail. Overcooking or too high heat will cause this to curdle irredeemably, so slow and easy does it.

If used, beat in the softened gelatin until thoroughly dissolved in hot custard, then stir in heavy cream (and vanilla extract if a bean wasn't available). Cover with plastic wrap laid directly on custard surface to prevent a skin forming. Seal thoroughly. Chill thoroughly, then whisk smooth again and pour into an ice-cream churn. Freeze according to the manufacturer's directions.

Homemade ice cream is very soft and needs to be stored (airtight of course) in the freezer for a couple of hours to firm and mellow it before serving.

*** BARBADOS NUTMEG ICE CREAM WITH RUM To Great Vanilla Ice Cream recipe add 1 teaspoon of freshly grated nutmeg to the custard while it is cooking.

After the ice cream is scooped, either individually or mounded up in a crystal bowl, heat a large ladle containing about 2 jiggers of Barbados rum set it alight and "flambe m'' your nutmeg ice cream.

Pour spirit of your choice over ice cream at the last minute. Chartreuse and creme de menthe go back to the dawn of American ice cream. Try out the Italian nut liqueurs -- Nocelle (walnut) and Frangelico (hazelnut) -- for an out-of-the-way ice cream trip. Others to try are thee Alsatian and Swiss eaux de vie such as Poire, Kirsch, Framboise, and Mirabelle.

*** PEACH SHERBET WITH PEACH PUREE AND BOURBON 3 cups fresh peach puree Juice of half a lemon 3 cup superfine or granulated sugar 2 cups milk 1 tsp. almond extract SKIN, peel, and puree enough ripe peaches to make 3 cups of puree (about 4 medium large peaches). Have lemon juice waiting in a bowl as you skin and stone each peach, then cut it into quarters before pureeing in a processor.

Stir in the sugar, then the cold milk. If you are using granulated sugar, melt it first in 1 cup of the milk stirred over heat. Add the remaining cup of cold milk to cool the mixture, which should be cold before it is added to the peach puree. Stir in the almond extract and chill the mixture thoroughly. Freeze according to the manufacturer's directions. Yield: about 2 quarts.

*** PEACH PUREE WITH BOURBON A sophisticated sauce to pour over peach sherbet 3 large, ripe peaches Juice of 1 lemon 1 to 3 cup superfine sugar 1 cup best-quality bourbon SKIN, stone, and slice peaches into the lemon juice. Puree in a food processor, adding sugar to taste. You will need more or less depending on the condition of the fruit. Stir in the bourbon and serve the sauce at room temperature over peach sherbet. The sauce is also marvellous with peach or vanilla ice cream. Makes about 2 cups.