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Thatched roof on Settlers’ Cabben replaced after storm

Larry Mills, front, and Kent Govia work on the final section of the roof of the Settlers’ Cabben (Photograph by Akil Simmons)

A 17th-century-style Bermuda dwelling is getting a makeover after its roof, made of palmetto leaves, was damaged in the last hurricane season.

The roof of the Settlers’ Cabben at Carter House Museum in St David’s is being completely re-thatched by Larry Mills, an enthusiast in vernacular architecture, using almost entirely traditional techniques.

Mr Mills, who led the construction of the building, which is fashioned on the types of dwellings built on the island in 1612, said that perhaps the only practice that differed from the methods of old was the use of nails to secure the leaves to the structure rather than tying them.

He said that the time of year during this thatching — the third he has led at the site including for the cabin’s construction in 2012 — has been particularly challenging, not only because of the “iffy” weather but because of the condition of leaves.

Mr Mills explained: “The leaves have a very short shelf life — when they are cut, I only have about a four-day window to thatch them.

“Each time I thatched the roof was a different time of the year and I found out this might be the worst time — it’s not just the weather but the biological and chemical make-up of the plant.

“I have to use the leaves when they are green because when you weave them, as they deteriorate, they become tighter and weave themselves — as it lies down, they curl up together — but the leaves start to deteriorate as soon as you cut them so I have to use them very quickly.”

The Settlers’ Cabben, or cabin in modern parlance, at Carter House Museum was built to mark the 400th anniversary of the arrival of the first settlers in St David’s on board the Plough in 1612.

The idea for its construction came in 2011 when Rick Spurling, the president of the St David’s Island Historical Society, which runs Carter House Museum, and US-based archaeologist Michael Jarvis discussed what could be done to commemorate the occasion.

Larry Mills, right, and Kent Govia work on the final sections of the roof of the Settlers’ Cabben (Photograph by Akil Simmons)

Mr Spurling said: “We came up with the challenging idea to build a first home, palmetto-thatched and mud and stud [wattle and daub] dwelling as authentically as possible and using the tools, within reason, they used, which had never been done before in Bermuda.

“The re-thatching by Larry Mills, assisted by Kent Govia and Terry Robinson, is now almost complete, and we thank profusely all those who donated leaves: the Gibbons estate, the Spurlings, Peter Frith, Stephen Kempe, Andrew Roberts, the Van Pelts, the Whaymans and others.

“I regard Larry as one of the most knowledgeable of our vernacular [using traditional methods and materials] architecture, and what makes him special is his knowledge of the techniques, building materials and tools of the day.

“This project completes his vernacular arsenal from beginning to end and I am encouraging him to write a book.

“After three thatching projects, Larry says he is getting a better feel for how the early settlers thatched their roofs using various techniques and methods.

“He readily admits this is a continuous learning experience and some day he will know all the answers.”

Larry Mills works using traditional methods (Photograph by Akil Simmons)

Mr Mills, who is a director of St David’s Island Historical Society, also had to re-thatch the roof in 2019 after damage by Hurricane Humberto.

He said he has been interested in the evolution of vernacular architecture since the 1980s.

Asked whether he could live in such a dwelling, he said: “Could? Yes. Would? No.

“I have experienced the comforts of modern living and I have come to appreciate the struggles of the early settlers.”

Larry Mills collects palmetto leaves for the roof (Photograph by Akil Simmons)

After deciding to go ahead with the construction of Settlers’ Cabben, Mr Spurling set about collecting tools from the US, which now form an exhibit in Carter House Museum.

The society flew in the lead archaeologist — David Givens from Jamestown, Virginia — who was familiar with how the English built their homes in 1607.

Also brought in for the project was Val Deer from Christmas, Mississippi, an acclaimed expert in all forms of thatching and a Native American (Choctaw) master thatcher.

Mr Spurling researched what the dwellings looked like, their size, windows, doors, hardware, fireplace, chimney and sleeping loft among other details, and engaged Stephen West, a Bermudian architect, to do the drawings and planning application.

Mr Spurling said: “At this time, there was no archaeological evidence in Bermuda to consult hence we asked Jamestown.

“I relied on the John Smith drawings of 1624 of St George’s, the fortifications, St Peter’s Church, etc.

“Thatch lasts seven to eight years but as per Deer’s advice, we nailed these leaves on to the rafters.

“The early settlers may not have used nails as they were expensive and not easy to make on a little island in the Atlantic.

“Instead, they would have used palmetto woven rope or the stems and fronds themselves wrapped under and over the rafters.

“Those methods were highly vulnerable to high winds.”

The Carter House Museum and Settlers’ Cabben are at 34 Southside Road, St David's, in St George's.

An event is being planned to unveil the structure with its new roof, and the annual Onion Day celebration at the location is also planned for May 30.

Larry Mills works on the Settlers’ Cabben (Photograph by Akil Simmons)
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Published March 20, 2026 at 7:55 am (Updated March 20, 2026 at 7:55 am)

Thatched roof on Settlers’ Cabben replaced after storm

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