standard western fare, its unusual combination of spices and varied methods of preparation makes each dish fascinating, tasty and different.

Unfortunately, there are many who believe that a dash of standard curry powder makes anything "Indian,'' but as the following recipes illustrate, authentic Indian dishes are a rich blend of exotic ingredients.

These selections are only part of a traditional collection of dishes reflecting cooking styles from all over India. They have been gathered by Lalita Ahmed in her cookbook, Indian Cooking, which is available at the Bermuda Library.

In addition to recipes, the book contains background information on regional cooking, preparation and serving styles, and a glossary of traditional ingredients.

*** NIMKI Nimki, or namak pare, are diamond-shaped snacks which can be flavoured with various essences, vegetables or fruits. Nimkis can be stored in sealed jars for 1-2 months. When glazed with sugar caramel they become a sweat snack, called shakar para or gauja.

Preparation time: 15 minutes. Cooking time: 10 minutes 8 oz. plain flour 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. onion seeds 1 oz. butter or ghee 1 ripe banana, peeled and mashed water to mix oil for deep frying SIFT flour, salt and sugar into a bowl, add onion seeds. Rub in butter or ghee, add banana and enough water to make a soft, smooth dough. Roll our very thinly to about 1 inch thickness. Cut dough diagonally into strips both ways to make small diamond shapes. Prick with a fork. Heat oil in a pan and fry the shapes until golden brown and crisp. Drain on kitchen paper and allow to cool.

Variations: To make savoury nimki: Add either freshly gorund black pepper or chili powder to taste, and omit banana and sugar.

To make shakar para, or guaja, to serve as a sweet snack: Reduce salt to a pinch and proceed as for main recipe, with or without banana filling. Make a rich sugar syrup with 10 oz. sugar and 18 fl.oz. water. Dissolve sugar in the water, increase heat and boil until a drop of the syrup forms a hard ball in a cup of cold water, but before the syrup turns golden. Add fried nimki to the pan and stir to coat with the sugar caramel. Serve hot or cold.

*** MACHLI KA SALAN (fish curry) Preparation time: 15 minutes. Cooking time: about 20 minutes 11 oz. ghee or 3 tbsp. oil 2 onions, peeled and chopped 1 oz. fresh ginger root, peeled and crushed 4-5 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 1 tsp. ground turmeric about 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. ground cumin 1 tsp. ground coriander 1 tsp. garam masala powder 1 lb. white fish fillets, cut into 1 inch pieces 1 14 oz.-can tomatoes 1 tsp. salt 1 green chili, halved and seeded To garnish: 1 green pepper, cored, seeded, finely chopped chopped coriander leaves Since frozen fish, flakes easily it is a good idea to add fish towards the end of the cooking. Alternatively, fish can be fried separately and added to the sauce, or the dish can be cooked in a pre-heated 325-degree F. oven for about 40 minutes.

Heat ghee or oil in a large saucepan, fry onion until light brown. Add ginger, garlic, turmeric, chili powder, cumin, coriander and garam masala. Fry 15 seconds, add fish pieces, gently stir. Add tomatoes, salt and chili. Cover and gently cook for 5-10 minutes or until fish is tender. Remove from heat, add green pepper and coriander leaves. If preferred remove chili halves, then serve with bread and rice.

*** PORK VINDALOO This dish is a speciality of Goan cooking and vindaloo dishes always contain vinegar.

Preparation time: 30 minutes, plus 15-20 minutes for marinating. Cooking time: about 1 hour 4 fl. oz. vinegar 1 lb. lean pork, cubed 1 lb. onion, peeled and roughly chopped 1 tsp. cumin seeds 2 tsp. mustard seeds 5-6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed 1 oz. peeled, fresh ginger root OR 1 tsp. ground ginger 4 cloves 1 1 inch-stick cinnamon 6-8 pepercorns 11 oz. ghee OR 3 tbsp. oil 6-8 curry leaves 1 lb. tomatoes, skinned and chopped 1 tsp. ground turmeric salt 2-3 sprigs coriander leaves, chopped, to garnish BLEND 1 tbsp. of the vinegar with a little water, rinse pork in the mixture.

Drain and pat dry with kitchen paper. Grind onion, cumin seeds, mustard seeds, garlic, ginger, cloves, cinnamon and peppercorns with a little of the remaining vinegar to a thick paste. In a large bowl or dish thoroughly mix pork cubes with this paste, cover and set aside to marinate for 15-20 minutes.

Heat ghee or oil, fry curry leaves until golden brown. Add any remaining vinegar and salt. Cover and simmer for about 40-50 minutes, until pork is tender. A little water may be added during cooking if necessary, although sauce should be fairly thick. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with rice.

*** MEAT MADRAS Madras is the main city of Southern India and is famous for many unique dishes, the special flavour of which is achieved with coconut and curry leaves.

Preparation time: 20 minutes. Cooking time: about 1 hour 2 oz. ghee OR 4 tbsp. oil 1 sml. onion, peeled and chopped 1 lb. lean lamb or beef, cut into cubes 5-6 fl. oz. water 1 tbsp. coriander seeds 10 peppercorns 13 inch-stick cinnamon 3 cloves 1 tsp. chili powder 1 med. onion, peeled and chopped 4 oz. fresh grated coconut OR 2 1 oz. desiccated coconut 5-6 curry leaves 1 tsp. ground turmeric salt HEAT 11 oz. of the ghee or 3 tbsp. of the oil in a large pan and fry small onion until light brown. Add meat and water, cover, cook gently for 20-25 minutes until meat is fairly tender. Remove from heat, stir until softened onion is thoroughly incorporated.

In a separate pan: dry roast coriander, peppercorns, stick cinnamon, cloves and chili powder over a gentle heat for a few seconds, without letting them burn. Allow to cool and grind to a fine powder. Heat remaining oil or ghee over medium heat, fry onion until light brown. Add coconut and curry leaves and cook for 1 minute. Add turmeric, ground spices, salt and cooked meat mixture. Cook for about 20 minutes until meat is tender and sauce has thickened, adding a little extra water if mixture becomes too dry. Serve as a main dish with pulao rice or parathas.

*** MURGH KA SALAN (Chicken Curry) Preparation time: 40 minutes. Cooking time: about 1 hour 20 minutes 11 oz. ghee or 3 tbsps. oil 1 lge. onion, peeled and chopped 1 1-inch stick cinnamon 6 cloves 1-2 bay leaves 4-6 small green cardamoms 2 tsp. black cumin (optional) 1 X 3-31 lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces 1 oz. fresh ginger root, peeled and ground to a paste, OR 2 tsp. ground ginger 11 tsp. garlic powder 1-2 tsp. ground turmeric 2 tsps. ground cumin 5 oz. plain, unsweetened yogurt salt 15 oz. water To garnish: chopped coriander leaves 1-2 green chilis, halved and seeded HEAT ghee or oil in large pan, fry onion until light brown. Stir in cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves, cardamoms and black cumin, fry 1-2 minutes. Add chicken, fry 1-2 minutes. Stir in ginger, garlic, chili powder, turmeric and cumin, fry 1-2 minutes. Add yogurt and salt. Cover, cook about 10 minutes until moisture has evaporated.

When ghee or oil separates from the mixture and rises to the surface, stir in water. Cover and cook gently 30-40 minutes, or until chicken is tender. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add extra water or reduce the sauce if necessary.

Garnish with chopped coriander and chili. Serve as a main dish with rice and bread. Serves 8.

*** TANDOORI CHICKEN (Dry) Tandoors are clay ovens used in India. All tandoori dishes are marinated and are cooked until dry.

Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus 10-12 hours for marinating. Cooking time: 30 minutes 1 X 3-3 1 lb. chicken, cut into 8 pieces salt about 1 tsp. chili powder 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 oz. fresh ginger root, peeled and ground to a paste, OR 11 tsp. ground ginger 3 garlic cloves, peeled and ground to a paste 2 tsp. paprika 10 oz. plain unsweetened yoghurt 1 tbsp. lemon juice orange food colouring (optional) oil WITH a sharp knife, make regular slits through the skin and flesh of the chicken portions. Rub with salt. Mix together chili powder, pepper, ginger, garlic, paprika, yogurt, lemon juice and a few drops of orange food colouring.

In a large bowl or dish pour this mixture over the chicken portions, cover and set aside to marinate for 10-12 hours. The longer it is left the better the result will be.

Place chicken portions on a flameproof tray and put them under a pre-heated grill for about 15 minutes on each side, turning them regularly and brushing with oil occasionally. Serve as a side dish with a fresh crisp salad. Serves 8.

Variation: Chicken portions may also be cooked in the oven. Arrange them on a wire rack in a baking tray and cook them in a pre-heated 425 degree F-oven for 35-45 minutes, or until juices run clear when flesh is pierced with a skewer, brushing chicken with oil and turning them to brown all sides evenly.

*** SUKHI TARKARI (Dry mixed vegetable curry) Preparation time: 15 minutes. Cooking time: 20-25 minutes 1-11 oz. ghee OR 2-3 tbsp. oil 1 sml. onion, peeled and chopped, OR 2 tsp. cumin seeds 1 lb. diced mixed vegetables (e.g. potatoes, carrots, swede, peas, beans, cauliflower) about 1 tsp. chili powder 2 tsps. ground coriander 1 tsp. ground turmeric salt 2-3 tomatoes, skinned and chopped, OR juice of 1 lemon 10 oz. water (optional) HEAT ghee or oil in a pan, gently fry onion until light brown. Alternatively, fry cumin seeds until they crackle. Add diced vegetables, stir in chili powder, coriander, turmeric and salt. Fry 2-3 minutes. Add either chopped tomatoes or lemon juice. Stir well and add only a little water if a dry vegetable curry is preferred. Cover and cook gently for 10-12 minutes until dry. For a moister curry stir in 10 oz. water before covering. Simmer 5-6 minutes until vegetables are tender. Serve as a side dish, or as a main dish with rice or chappatis or nan.

KAKRI RAITA (Cucumber Raita) Prepararion time: 5-7 minutes 8 fl.oz. plain unsweetened yogurt 1 cucumber, grated or sliced salt 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 green or red chili, seeded, very finely chopped (optional) 1-2 sprigs of coriander leaves, chopped a piece of chili to garnish BEAT yogurt in a bowl. Add other ingredients, mix well and chili. Garnish raita with a piece of chili. Serve as a side dish with roti and as an accompaniment to a main dish such as a biryani.

*** PHALON KA CHAAT (Fruit Savoury) Preparation time: 15 minutes 2 eating apples, cored and sliced 2-3 bananas, peeled and sliced 1 pear, peeled and sliced 1 orange, peeled, pith removed, seeded, segmented and cut in half 1 15 oz. can sliced peaches, drained a few grapes 1 cucumber, chopped 1 15 oz. can pineapple chunks, drained 1 15 oz. can guavas, drained and lightly mashed about 1 tsp. chili powder 1-2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper pinch of salt or black salt 1 sml. ripe pawpaw, peeled, deseeded, cubed, OR 1 15 oz.-can pawpaw, drained and cubed lemon juice, to taste IN a large bowl mix together apple, banana, pear, orange, peaches, grapes, cucumber, pineapple and guavas. Sprinkle with chili powder, pepper and salt.

Add cubed pawpaw, sprinkle with lemon juice. Toss all fruits well. Serve this savoury fruit salad with kebabs or samosas.

*** BIRYANI (Meat and Rice) Preparation time: 40 minutes. Cooking time: 2 hours There are two methods of cooking biryani. Both are easy and very effective in producing the unique result. In this method, the meat and rice are cooked separately, then layered. This ensures that the rice will be cooked to perfection. Any type of rice can be used but basmati is the best. A simple raita, salad or chutney is often enough accompaniment and in restaurant a curry sauce is often presented as a side dish. 3 oz. ghee OR butter 1 onion, peeled and sliced 1 bay leaf 11 in.-stick cinnamon 4 sml. green cardamoms 2 lge. cardamoms 6 cloves 1 lb. meat, cubed 2 tsp. ginger paste OR ground ginger 2 tsp. garlic paste OR garlic powder 1 tsp. ground turmeric 2 tsps. ground coriander 2 tsps. ground cumin 5 oz. plain unsweetened yogurt 1 tsp. salt about 1 tsp. chili powder 15 oz. water To cook the rice: 11 lb. rice 4-5 Imperial pints water (1 pint 20 oz.) 2 tsp. salt 1 bay leaf 11 -inch stick cinnamon 1 tsp. black cumin seeds To finish: 1 sml. onion, peeled, sliced and fried 3-4 sprigs coriander leaves, chopped 2 green chilis, seeded, very finely chopped freshly ground black pepper 4 small green cardamoms, ground juice of 2 lemons yellow food colouring OR a pinch of ground saffron dissolved in water 3 tbsp. milk 1 oz. butter or ghee, melted MELT ghee or butter in a large pan, fry onion until golden. Add bay leaf, cinnamon, cardamoms and cloves. Fry 1 minute. Add meat, ginger, garlic, turmeric, coriander, cumin, yogurt, salt and chili powder. Stir well. Cover and cook until dry. Increase heat and fry until oil separates from mixture.

Add water, continue cooking 40 to 50 minutes until meat is tender. There should be about 3 tbsp. of thick sauce.

Meanwhile cook the rice. Place it in a large saucepan, add water, salt, bay leaf, cinnamon stick and black cumin seeds. Bring to the boil and cook until it is almost tender. Remove from heat and drain. Put a thin layer of rice in the base of a clean, heavy based pan. Spread over a layer of cooked meat, without the sauce, followed by layers of fried onions, chopped coriander leaves and chili. Repeat layers once or twice, retaining a little onion and chopped coriander and finishing with a layer of rice. Sprinkle surface with fried onion, chopped coriander, pepper, cardamom and lemon juice.

With a spoon handle, make three or four holes in the rice to allow steam to rise and pour the food colouring or saffron, remaining sauce, milk and butter or ghee at random over the surface. Place pan on a medium heat and as soon as any steam is visible, lower heat, cover and cook very gently for 5 minutes. To serve, use a wide spoon and from one edge scoop out and mix a portion of the rice and meat together.

*** SADA PULAO (Plain fried rice) The rice is usually cooked in oil tempered with whole garam masala, and cumin seeds or onion. When cooked with fish, meat and poultry it is called pulao or biryani, with pulses it is called khichhari (kedgeree), and with vegetables it is called tahiri, pulao, or pilaf.

Preparation time: 15 minutes. Cooking time: 30 minutes 3 oz. ghee or butter 1 sml. onion, peeled and chopped 2 teacups long-grain American or basmati rice, rinsed and drained 1 tsp. salt 4 teacups water MELT ghee or butter in a large pan. Fry chopped onion until golden brown. Add rice and salt, and fry for 1 -1 minute. Add water, cover and bring to the boil. Lower heat and gently stir rice a few times. Cover and cook on a very gentle heat for 10-15 minutes until water is fully absorbed and rice is cooked. Do not stir during cooking. If rice is not cooked by the time water is fully absorbed, add 1 tbsp. warm water and continue cooking until rice is tender.

Variations: Add 1 tsp. black cumin seeds or the following whole garam masala, with or without the onion, and fry for 1 minute before adding rice: add 4 sml.

green cardamoms, 2 lge. cardomoms, 1 tsp. black cumin seeds, 4 cloves, 8-10 peppercorns, 1 inch stick cinnamon, and 1 bay leaf.

To make egg fried rice, pour two beaten eggs over the nearly-cooked rice. Do not stir until rice is fully cooked and water is absorbed.

*** ROGANI ROTI (Rich Bread) Rogan means creamy and rogani roti is made with milk and butter or cream. This type of bread is usually soft and keeps well for a few days.

Preparation time: 15 minutes. Cooking time: about 30 minutes 1 lb. plain wholemeal flour pinch of salt 10 oz. milk 2 oz. butter OR 2 fl. oz. cream ghee or butter for frying (optional) MIX flour and salt together and make a well in the centre. Warm milk slightly and melt butter in it, but do not allow milk to boil. Gradually add milk and butter, or milk and cream, to the flour. Knead well for 1-2 minutes. Divide dough into 22-24 portions. On a floured surface roll one portion into a 6-inch circle about 1 inch thick.

Gently heat a frying pan or Indian bread pan and place the circle in it. Over a medium heat cook dough on both sides until brown specks appear. Then either press roti with a clean tea towel or add 1 tsp. ghee or butter and cook briefly until golden brown on both sides. Remove from pan and keep wrapped in a tea towel, or place in a covered container. Cook remaining rotis and stack one on top of the other. Makes 22-24.

Variations: A combination of yogurt and cream, or all soured cream, or evaporated milk may be used instead of the milk mixture. A mixture of plain white flour and wholemeal flour may be used.