moist flesh and a mild ocean scent. Reddish colour is natural. Even albacore (white tuna) is slightly pink when raw. Avoid excessively soft, dried out, spotted, or foul smelling tuna.

Buying Guide: For each serving allow 1 lb. of tuna for streaks, 1 to 1 lb. for fillets.

Storage: Store fresh tuna in a lidded container and refrigerate for up to three days. Keep frozen tuna no longer than three months.

Thawing: Frozen tuna should be slowly thawed in the refrigerator and, once thawed, cooked immediately. Thawing can take anywhere from several hours to a day, depending on size and how frozen. Thawing at room temperature, or in warm water or in a plastic bag under running cold water causes the fish flesh to become mushy. Pat the thawed fish dry with a paper towel. Fish which has been defrosted has an opaque rather than translucent looking flesh and the texture is mushy rather than firm.

Advice from local fisherman Dave Barber: To freeze fish double bag in plastic with the date on. Do not freeze for more than 3 months.

Cooking Fish: It is important not to overcook fish. A 1-inch thick steak, fillet, or whole fish will poach, broil, saute or bake in 9 minutes. (A very lean fish may require only slightly more than 8 minutes of cooking per inch of thickness, while at the other extreme, a very fatty fish may need nearly 10 minutes.) If the fish is being cooked in a sauce, you may have to add a few minutes to the total cooking time. If the fish is refrigerator cold rather than at room temperature, add slightly less than 2 minutes per inch for thickness. If fish is being cooked frozen, double the amount of time it would require if cooked thawed at room temperature. (Information supplied, in part, by Mrs. Betsy Baillie, Government Nutritionist) .

One of Summer's many blessings is an abundance of yellowfin tuna. As with many local products, this tuna is not only delicious but superior in flavour and versatile. From sushi to salads and barbecues, it's a genuine winner.

Tuna can be bought whole, in steaks, as fillets or fillet slabs, and is at its most economical when purchased directly from the fisherman.

Here are some of the ways you can prepare the beautiful yellowfin for family and friends alike: THE BASICS OF PREPARING AND COOKING FRESH BERMUDA TUNA The easiest way to clean a tuna is by filleting the flesh away from the backbone on either side. Follow up by removing the thick skin. This should yield two good fillets, through the middle of which will be a darker strip of meat. Remove, if desired, by cutting out the V-shaped strip. There is nothing wrong with this dark meat except that it is usually oiler and stronger in taste than the other flesh.

Cook the fillets (or steaks or cuts) of tuna in a pressure cooker with cooking oil, well salted, for 10 minutes, to give a taste of canned tuna; or boil in salted water for about 30 minutes until the meat flakes easily. Drain, chill and use in salads, sandwiches or various other ways. (Bermuda's Best Recipes).

TUNA PATE 6 oz. cream cheese 2 hard-boiled eggs 1 lb. fresh tuna 3 to 4 tablespoons cognac 1 truffle (optional) OR 12 Italian/Greek black olives, pitted Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup jellied consomme LET cream cheese soften at room temperature. Puree hard-boiled eggs in blender or food processor. Add tuna, with oil and cognac, and blend or process until smooth (In a blender, you may have to do this in batches). Chop half the truffle and slice the rest thin, or chop half the olives and cut the others in two. Combine chopped truffle or olives with cream cheese, working with a fork until smooth. Season to taste with pepper. Put in blender or food processor with tuna and eggs, blend until smooth. Taste for seasoning, add salt if needed. Pack pate into a bowl and decorate with sliced truffle or olives. Melt consomme, then stir in a metal bowl over ice until syrupy and about to set.

Cover pate with a thin coating of the consomme and chill until set. Serve with strips of toast or Melba toast. Yield: about 2 1 cups.

CURRIED TUNA DIP 1 lb. fresh tuna 2 tsp. curry paste 1 cup mango chutney 1 cup raisins Mayonnaise to bind Salt and pepper Mix above ingredients and place in refrigerator for several hours. Serve on crackers or toast points.

LAGUNA TUNA 1 1 lbs. yellowfin tuna steaks, fresh or frozen 1 tsp. ground cloves 1 tsp.

white pepper 1 tsp. salt 4 tbsp. all-purpose flour 2 tbsp. margarine Sunshine Sauce (recipe follows) THAW tuna if frozen. Combine cloves, pepper and salt and coat both sides of tuna steaks. Dredge steaks with flour, shaking off excess. Melt margarine in skillet over moderate heat and brown tuna on both sides, leaving tuna slightly pink in the centre. Heat Sunshine Sauce and serve over steaks. Yield: 4 servings.

Sunshine Sauce 1 cup chopped onion 1 cup EACH chopped red and green bell pepper 2 tbsp.

chopped fresh parsley 1 tbsp. chopped celery 2 cups water 1 tsp. ground nutmeg 1 tsp. white pepper 2 tbsp. cornstarch PAN grill onion, bell peppers, parsley and celery on medium-high heat, using small amounts of water to keep them from burning. When vegetables have cooked down, add remaining water, nutmeg and pepper. Let simmer 10 minutes on medium heat. Strain liquid from vegetables; discard vegetables. Add cornstarch to liquid, return to medium heat, stirring constantly until thickened. Let sauce cool. Reheat before serving. Yield: approximately 1 1 cups.

GRILLED FRESH BERMUDA TUNA 4 tuna fillets (about 6 oz. each) Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 medium onion 2 sprigs parsley 1 sprig fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 1 tbsp. cooking oil 2 tbsp. white wine Juice of 1 lemon 1 oz. olive oil SEASON tuna fillets with salt and pepper and marinate in a bowl for 4 to 6 hours with minced onion, parsley, thyme bay leaf, oil, white wine and lemon juice.

Drain fish fillets and dry on paper towels. Lightly cover with olive oil before cooking on a hot grill. Can be served with Remoulade Sauce (recipe follows).

Remoulade Sauce 1 tbsp. capers 1 tbsp. French gherkins 1 tbsp. fresh herbs (parsley, chervil, chives, tarragon) 1 anchovy fillet CHOP ingredients finely and fold into 1 1 cups garlic mayonnaise -- see recipe below.

BARBECUED YELLOWFIN TUNA STEAKS 2 lbs. tuna steaks, fresh or frozen 1 cup olive or vegetable oil 1 small clove garlic, minced 2 tbsp. lemon juice THAW tuna if frozen. Place tuna steaks in shallow baking dish. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over tuna. Refrigerate 1 hour, turning once.

Grill steaks over moderately hot coals 5 to 6 minutes per side, depending on thickness. Steaks are done when slightly pink in centre. Yield: 6 servings.

TUNA NOODLE DELIGHT 2 cups noodles 1 1 cups flaked tuna 1 cup onion (chopped) 1 cup green pepper (chopped) 1 cup mushrooms (sliced) 1 cup drained asparagus tips 2 tbsp. butter 2 tbsp. flour 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. pepper 1 cup milk 1 tbsp. parsley 1 cup Cheddar cheese 1 cup Parmesan cheese 1 tsp. paprika COOK noodles according to package instructions. Melt butter in a saucepan. Add flour and blend well. Add milk, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Add tuna, green pepper, onion, mushrooms, noodles and paprika. Mix well. Top with cheese. Place mixture in a greased casserole dish and bake at 350 degrees F.

for about 40 minutes. Garnish with parsley. Serve hot. (The Bermuda Cook Book by Cecille Snaith - Simmons).

TUNA SHEPHERD'S PIE 2 cups cooked flaked tuna 1 cup butter or margarine 1 cup flour 1 tsp. salt Pinch of pepper and paprika 2 cups milk 1 cup of cooked peas 1 cup of cooked diced carrots 2 cups mashed potatoes, seasoned with salt and mixed with a little milk and butter BOIL tuna about 20 minutes; drain and flake. Make a sauce with butter, flour, seasonings, milk. Melt butter, remove from heat and stir in flour and seasonings. Very slowly add milk, stirring all the time to keep smooth. Return to moderate heat or cook in a double boiler, stirring all the time until the sauce thickens. Continue to cook for 3-4 minutes. Add flaked tuna, cooked peas and carrots. Place mixture in a greased casserole (2 quart size). Top with mashed potatoes. Bake at 350 degrees F. for 30 minutes. Serves 8-10 people.

(Bermuda's Best Recipes).

BERMUDA FISH SYMPHONY 1 8 oz. tuna fillet 1 cup red wine 1 garlic clove 1 sprig parsley 1 small carrot 1 small onion Freshly ground black pepper 2 lemons 1 8 oz. wahoo fillet Salt 1 8 oz. dolphin fillet 4 tbsp. cooking oil 1 cup clarified butter 1 oz.

capers Bermuda fennel for garnish Curry sauce (see recipe below) Lemon sauce (see recipe below) MARINATE tuna for 2 to 3 hours in red wine with minced garlic, sliced carrot, chopped onion and 1 tsp. crushed pepper. When marinated, re move tuna and drain on paper towel. Season with salt and set aside.

Squeeze juice of one lemon over wahoo fillet. Season with salt and set aside.

Season dolphin fillet with salt and set aside. In a frying pan combine oil with half the butter and cook fish fillets in the following order: first the wahoo, then the dolphin and lastly the tuna.

When tuna is cooked, degrease pan and add one or two cups of the strained tuna marinade. Reduce over medium heat for a good 5 minutes and then, with a whisk, add rest of butter. Strain through a fine sieve. Correct seasoning. Pour over tuna and keep warm.

Make curry sauce to pour over the dolphin. Keep warm.

For the wahoo, cut zest of remaining lemon into thin julienne strips and blanch in rapidly boiling water. Make lemon sauce. Add capers and blanched zest strips. Pour over wahoo fillet.

Garnish each separate fish with sprigs of Bermuda fennel. (A Taste of Bermuda by Jean-Claude Garzia). Lemon Sauce 5 shallots 3 cup white wine Juice of 2 lemons 1 cup cream (35% fat) 1 cup melted butter Salt, freshly ground white pepper PUT chopped shallots, wine and 3 of the lemon juice into a saucepan. Simmer over low heat until mixture is reduced to consistency of marmalade. Add cream and cook over high heat for about 3 or 4 minutes. Add butter in small amounts while stirring with a whisk. When all the butter has been added, check seasoning and add remaining lemon juice. Strain through a sieve. Reheat without boiling. (A Taste of Bermuda by Jean-Claude Garzia).

Curry Sauce 1 medium onion, finely chopped 4 tsp. butter 1 apple, peeled and diced 1 small banana, peeled and cut in small pieces 1 tsp. curry powder 1 glass (4 ozs.) white wine 1 1 cups chicken stock 4 tsp. mango chutney 1 tsp. cornstarch 1 cup heavy cream 3 tbsp. fruit butter (see below) Salt and pepper SAUTE chopped onion in butter until limp but not browned. Add apple and banana. Continue to saute over low heat for 3 or 4 minutes. Add curry powder and white wine. Increase heat and continue to cook until mixture is reduced by half. Add chicken stock and mango chutney. Season with salt and pepper. Allow to simmer for 1 hour. Strain mixture through a fine sieve and return to saucepan.

Combine cornstarch and cream and stir into the curry sauce. Just before serving, add fruit butter and correct seasoning. (A Taste of Bermuda by Jean-Claude Garzia).

Fruit Butter 3 tbsp. soft butter 2 tsp. apple sauce 1 cup mashed banana Juice of 1 an orange FRESH BERMUDA TUNA WITH MARINADE DRESSING 6 slices fresh tuna Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon 1 oz. olive oil 1 tsp.

chopped chives or parsley SLICE raw tuna thinly and arrange on a very cold serving platter. Season with salt and pepper. Combine lemon juice and olive oil and pour this dressing lightly over tuna slices. Sprinkle with chopped parsley or chives. Serve with toast bits. (A Taste of Bermuda by Jean-Claude Garzia).

Garlic Mayonnaise 1 egg 1 tsp. Dijon mustard Salt Ground white pepper 3 cup oil, preferably olive oil Few drops wine vinegar or lemon juice 2 garlic cloves, crushed SEPARATE egg and put yolk in a bowl. Add mustard, salt and pepper. Beat with a small whisk. When thoroughly blended, add oil in a fine stream continuing to beat vigorously. When sauce begins to thicken, gradually add vinegar or lemon juice if you are using olive oil. Then add the rest of the oil and the crushed garlic. Taste and correct seasoning. (A Taste of Bermuda by Jean-Claude Garzia).

CAPT. RUSSELL YOUNG'S FISH CHOWDER Recipe uses chunk tuna, eliminating need to pick out bones. May be made for any amount of company and frozen.

8 cups water to each 2 1 lbs. (approx.) of fresh or frozen tuna 2 tbsp. salt 2 tsp. thyme, preferably fresh 1 tbsp. pepper 1 cup chopped parsley 4 tbsp. minced onion (optional) 1 lb. sliced bacon 1 1 cups chopped celery 1 1 cups chopped onion 1 tbsp. curry 3 beef bouillon cubes 15 oz.-can tomato puree 2 tbsp. Worcestershire sauce 1 cup flour or corn starch CUT bacon into small strips with scissors. Boil fish in water with salt, pepper, thyme, parsley and minced onion in large pot until cooked through (as with tuna salad recipe above). Remove any black meat or skin, cool and crumble. Save stock. Meanwhile fry bacon lightly until almost crisp then, in the same fat, saute chopped onion and celery. Add all to stock with remaining ingredients (plus more chopped fresh thyme to taste, if available). Cover and simmer on low heat for a couple of hours. Celery should become transparent.

Then add additional 2 1 cups of water with half cup flour or cornstarch to thicken. Continue simmering on very low heat for another hour and watch that the pot doesn't stick! Cooktip: Can be thinned down when unfrozen. Sherry pepper and/or black rum can be added or served separately.

TUNA COOKTIPS Barbecued Tuna is excellent if marinated first in Italian salad dressing for several hours.

Tuna Shish-kebobs or Stir Fry: Use cubes of uncooked fish. Good recipes can be found in a local sherry pepper cookbook.

Seviche: Can be made with thin strips of raw tuna marinated not less than 24 hours in lemon juice and topped with finely sliced onion rings -- use flat glass dish, covered, for this. Refrigerate, turning occasionally. Drain, add sweet pepper pickle. Toss, serve on a bed of lettuce. Served well chilled, it is a delicious appetiser or luncheon dish.

Marinade cooktip: Ensure lemon has permeated right through the tuna. Flesh should be pale, not red.

Curry: Use your favourite curry sauce recipe but add lightly pan-fried fish pieces and simmer in thickened liquid. Adding apple, raisins, banana is good.

TUNA SALAD WITH EGG AND AVOCADO 1 head lettuce, washed, dried, separated into leaves 1 lb. yellowfin tuna 1 cup onion rings 1 cup diced avocado 4 hard-boiled eggs, quartered 2 to 3 tbsp.

capers 1 to 3 cups vinaigrette Arrange greens in a salad bowl and put the tuna, onion, avocado, eggs and capers on top. Dress with vinaigrette sauce to taste. Yield: 4 servings.

TROPICAL TUNA SALAD 1 lb. fresh tuna, flaked 1 cup fresh, diced pineapple 2 pieces chopped, preserved ginger 1 lettuce MIX together and serve on a bed of lettuce with dressing.

TUNA COLESLAW 1 head firm white cabbage 1 cup mayonnaise Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 1 cups flaked fresh tuna TRIM limp/discoloured leave, stalk and hard core from cabbage. Cut up in chunks, put in food processor and process until finely chopped, then mix by hand with the mayonnaise. Taste for seasoning -- if mayonnaise is well seasoned, you may not need any.

TOMATOES WITH TUNA AND ONIONS Fill tomato shells with fresh, flaked tuna mixed with chopped green onion or scallion, chopped parsley, chopped garlic, and chopped fresh basil and dressed with olive oil and lemon juice. Sprinkle tops with chopped parsley and criss-cross two anchovy fillets on top. Garnish with Greek or Italian black olives.

TUNA TOMATOES PRIMAVERA Fill tomato shells with flaked tuna mixed with drained, canned cannellini beans, chopped garlic, chopped parsley, chopped basil, dressed with a basil-flavoured vinaigrette. Sprinkle tons with chopped parsley.

FRESH TUNA FISH STEW 2 1 lbs. fresh tuna 2-3 sprigs mint 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 1 lbs. canned tomatoes 1 1 cups olive oil 33 cup dry white wine 2 Bermuda onions, sliced Make few incisions along the sides of a large piece of fresh tuna. Into each insert a leaf of mint and a little garlic, salt and pepper. Sprinkle with flour and brown in the oil, turning carefully with a spatula. Add the wine and cook until it evaporates. Remove fish and add remaining garlic and onion.

Saute until brown. Return fish, along with the tomatoes, and cook 5 minutes more. Add 1 cup water and simmer 20 minutes. Serve with rice or noodles.