aromas. For many of us, they are associated with fond childhood memories -- of grandmothers, aunts and mothers all creating delightful treats for our enjoyment.

One of the most tantalising aromas is that of baking breads, with their luscious cargoes of raisins, nuts, spices and essences.

In many lands, yeast-based holiday breads are a time-honoured tradition, and as much a part of Christmas as fruitcake is to us.

Some are eaten on specific days and at specific times.

Holiday breads also make wonderful, from-the-hearth gifts.

Wrapped in sparkling cellophane and tied with festive ribbon, they say: "Merry Christmas with Love'' in the most delicious way.

The following recipes are sure to please. Don't be put off by their length -- the results are more than worth the time you'll spend making them.

CHRISTMAS KUCHEN 1 cup warm water (105 0 F to 115 0 F) 1 pkge. active dry yeast 1 cup warm milk (105 0 F to 115 0 F) 1 cup butter or margarine, softened 2 tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. ground cardamom 1 tsp. salt 3 to 3 1 cups all-purpose flour 2 eggs Almond Filling (recipe follows) 1 cup chopped, candied cherries Almond Icing, optional (recipe follows) PLACE warm water in large warm bowl. Sprinkle in yeast; stir until dissolved, Add warm milk, butter, sugar, cardamom, salt, and 1 cup flour; blend well.

Stir in eggs and enough remaining flour to make soft dough. Knead on lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic, about 4 to 6 minutes. Place dough in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover; let rise in warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Punch dough down.

Remove dough to lightly floured surface; roll to 30- x 9-inch rectangle.

Spread Almond Filling over dough to within 1 inch of edges; sprinkle with cherries. Beginning at long end, roll up tightly as for jelly roll; pinch seam to seal. With sharp knife, cut roll in half lengthwise; carefully turn halves so cut sides face up. Twist halves together, keeping cut sides up so filling is visible. Transfer dough to greased baking sheet. Shape into ring; pinch ends together to seal. Cover; let rise in warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 20 to 40 minutes.

Bake at 350 0 F for 30 minutes or until done. Remove from baking sheet; let cool on wire rack. If desired, frost top with Almond Icing. Yield: 1 coffee cake.

Almond Filling: In small bowl, combine 1 cup (5 ozs.) almond paste and 1 egg white; stir with fork until well blended. Stir in 1 cup chopped, toasted blanched almonds.

Almond Icing: In small bowl, combine 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted; 1 teaspoon almond extract; and 1 to 2 tablespoons milk. Stir until smooth.

SANTA LUCIA CROWN 1 cup warm water (105 0 F to 115 0 F) 1 pkge. active dry yeast 1 cup warm milk (105 0 F to 115 0 F) 1 cup sugar 1 cup butter or margarine, softened 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. powdered saffron 4 1 to 4 3 cups all-purpose flour 3 eggs Powdered Sugar Frosting, optional (recipe follows) Red and green candied cherry halves, optional 6 candles, optional PLACE 1 cup warm water in large warm bowl. Sprinkle in yeast; stir until dissolved. Add remaining water, warm milk, sugar, butter, salt, saffron, and 1 1 cups flour; blend well. Stir in 2 eggs and enough remaining flour to make soft dough. Knead on lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic, about 6 to 8 minutes. Place in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover; let rise in warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.Punch dough down.

Remove dough to lightly floured surface; reserve 1 of dough for top of crown.

Divide remaining dough into 3 equal pieces; roll each to 16-inch rope. Braid ropes. Place braid into circle; pinch ends together to seal. Cover braids; let rise in warm draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. Lightly beat remaining egg; brush on braids. Bake at 375 0 F for 15 minutes or until done (small braid) and 25 minutes or until done (large braid), covering large braid with foil during last 10 minutes to prevent excess browning.

Remove braids from baking sheets; let cool on wire racks.

To decorate: Make 6 holes for candles in small braid. Place small braid on top of large braid. If desired, drizzle with Powdered Sugar Frosting and garnish with candied cherry halves. Insert candles in prepared holes.

Powdered Sugar Frosting: In small bowl, combine 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted; 4 to 5 teaspoons milk; and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Stir until smooth.

Yield: 1 crown.

STOLLEN 3 cup milk 1 cup sugar 1 tsp. salt 2 pkgs. active dry or compressed yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 6 cups flour 2 eggs 3 cup very soft butter 1 tsp. nutmeg 1 1 cups currants 1 cup diced citron 1 cup candied lemon peel 1 cup candied cherries Grated rind 1 lemon 1 cup coarsely chopped blanched almonds 3 tbsp. melted butter Confectioners' sugar SCALD milk, add sugar and salt, and cool to room temperature. Soften yeast in water. Mix with 1 cup flour and the scalded milk and sugar mixture. Cover and let rise until doubled in bulk. Add slightly beaten eggs to the sponge with the butter, 5 cups flour and nutmeg. Also add the currants, citron, lemon peel, cherries, lemon rind and the almonds. Turn out on a floured board and knead until very elastic, adding only enough flour to keep dough from sticking to the board. Put into a buttered bowl. Brush top with melted butter. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled in bulk. Punch down.

Divide divide into 2 parts. Roll into a rectangle 1 -inch thick and spread with melted butter. Fold dough over lengthwise and place on buttered baking sheet. Cover and let rise again in a warm place to double in bulk. Bake in a moderate oven, 350 0 F, for 50 minutes. Dust with confectioners' sugar. Store loaves overnight. Yield: 2 loaves.

CRANBERRY WREATHS 3 1 to 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1 pkge. active dry or rapid rise yeast 1 tsp. salt 3 cup evaporated milk 1 cup butter or margarine 1 cup water 2 eggs Cranberry Filling (recipe follows) Powdered Sugar Frosting, optional (recipe follows) IN large bowl, combine 1 1 cups flour, sugar, undissolved yeast, and salt.

Heat milk, butter, and water until very warm (120 0 to 130 0 F). Gradually add to dry ingredients; beat 2 minutes at medium speed with electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Add eggs and 1 cup flour; beat 2 minutes at high speed, scraping bowl occasionally. With spoon, stir in enough remaining flour to make stiff batter. Cover tightly with plastic wrap; refrigerate 2 to 24 hours.

Remove from refrigerator. Punch dough down. Remove dough to lightly floured surface. Roll to 21- x 12-inch rectangle. Spread Cranberry Filling over dough to within 1 inch of edges. Fold lenghtwise in thirds, to enclose filling, making a 12- x 7-inch rectangle. Press edges to seal.

Cut dough into 12 1-inch strips. Holding ends of each strip, twist three times. Pinch together ends of each twisted strip to form wreaths; place on greased baking sheets. Cover; let rise in warm, draft-free place until almost doubled in size, about 30 to 40 minutes. Bake at 400 0 F for 12 to 15 minutes or until done, switching positions of sheets halfway through baking time for even browning. Remove from baking sheets; let cool on wire racks. Frost wreaths with Powdered Sugar Frosting, if desired.

Cranberry Filling: In medium saucepan, combine 1 cup finely chopped cranberries, 1 cup sugar, and 1 1 teaspoons grated orange peel; bring to boil over medium heat. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes or until very thick. Remove from heat, and let cool.

Powdered Sugar Frosting: In small bowl, combine 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted; 4 to 5 teaspoons evaporated milk; and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Stir until smooth. Yield: 1 dozen wreaths.

Seasonal baking is a piece of cake! Continued from page 46 DATE NUT CHRISTMAS TREES 4 1 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 2 pkgs. active dry or rapid rise yeast 1 tsp. salt 3 cup milk 1 cup water 1 cup plus 1 cup butter or margarine, softened 2 eggs Cinnamon-Date Filling (recipe follows) Vanilla Icing (recipe follows) Candied fruits or small coloured candies IN a large bowl, combine 1 1 cups flour, sugar, undissolved yeast, and salt.

Heat milk, water, and 1 cup butter until warm (105 0F to 115 0F) -- butter does not need to melt. Gradually add to dry ingredients; beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. Add eggs and 1 cup flour; beat 2 minutes at high speed, scraping bowl occasionally. With spoon, stir in remaining flour to make stiff batter; grease top. Cover tightly with plastic wrap; refrigerate 2 hours or up to 2 days. Remove dough from refrigerator. Punch dough down. Remove dough to lightly floured surface; divide in half. Set aside 1 half. Roll remaining dough to 16- x 10-inch rectangle. Melt remaining 1 cup butter and brush 2 tablespoons of it over dough. Sprinkle evenly with half the Cinnamon-Date Filling. Beginning at long end, roll up tightly as for jelly roll; pinch seam to seal. With sharp knife, cut roll into 16 equal pieces.

On lower third of large greased baking sheet, arrange 5 rolls, cut sides up, in a row with edges touching. Form tree shape with additional rows of rolls -- 4 rolls in second row, 3 rolls in third row, 2 rolls in fourth row, and 1 for top of tree. Place remaining roll at bottom centre of tree to make trunk.

Repeat with remaining dough, butter, and filling. Cover; let rise in warm place until doubled in size, about 30 to 45 minutes.

Bake at 375 0F for 15 to 20 minutes or until done, switching positions of sheets halfway through baking time for even browning. Decorate as desired with Vanilla Icing and candied fruits or small coloured candies.

Cinnamon-Date Filling: In a small bowl, combine 1 8-oz. package chopped or snipped pitted dates; 1 cup chopped pecans or walnuts, toasted; 1 cup sugar; and 1 1 teaspoons ground cinnamon. Stir well.

Vanilla Icing: In small bowl, combine 2 cups powdered sugar, sifted; 2 to 3 tablespoons milk; and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Stir until smooth. Yield: 2 trees.

CHOCOLATE ALMOND PANETTONE 3 1 to 4 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1 pkge. active dry or rapid rise yeast 3 tsp. salt 3 cup evaporated milk 1 cup butter or margarine, cut into pieces 1 cup plus 1 tbsp. water 3 eggs 1 cup semi-sweet chocolate mini-morsels 1 cup chopped, blanched slivered almonds, toasted IN a large bowl, combine 1 1 cups flour, sugar, undissolved yeast, and salt.

Heat milk, butter, and 1 cup water until very warm (120 0F to 130 0 F).

Gradually add to dry ingredients; beat 2 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer, scraping bowl occasionally. With spoon, stir in enough remaining flour to make stiff batter. Cover; let rise in warm, draft-free place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. ( With rapid rise yeast, cover batter and let rest 10 minutes. Proceed with recipe).

With spoon, stir batter down. Stir in chocolate morsels and almonds. Divide batter in half; place in 2 well-greased 14- to 16-ounce coffee cans. Cover; let rise in warm, draft-free place until batter rises to within 1 inch of rim -- about 30 to 45 minutes.

Beat remaining egg with remaining 1 tablespoon water; brush over dough. Bake on lowest oven rack at 350 0F for 35 minutes or until done. Let loaves cool in cans on wire rack 5 minutes. Remove from cans to rack; let cool completely.

Yield: 2 loaves.

CZECHOSLOVAKIAN ORANGE CRESCENT 1 cup warm water (105 0F to 115 0 F) 1 pkge. active dry yeast 1 cup warm milk (105 0F to 115 0 F) 1 cup butter or margarine, softened 1 cup sugar 2 tsps. grated orange peel 1 tsp. salt 1 tsp. ground mace 3 to 3 1 cups all-purpose flour 1 egg Honey Orange Glaze (recipe follows) PLACE water in large bowl. Sprinkle in yeast; stir until dissolved. Add warm milk, butter, sugar, orange peel, salt, mace, and 1 cup flour; blend well.

Stir in egg and enough remaining flour to make soft dough. Knead on floured surface until smooth, about 6 minutes. Place in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover; let rise in warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

Punch dough down; remove to floured surface. Using one quarter of the dough, roll to 18-inch rope. Set aside. Divide remaining dough in half. Roll each half to 30-inch rope; join to make 1 long rope. Wrap long rope around small rope. Pinch ends to seal. Place loaf on greased baking sheet. Curve ends.

Cover; let rise in warm place until doubled in size, about 30 minutes. Bake at 350 0F for 35 minutes or until done. Remove from sheet; let cool on wire rack.

Brush with Honey Orange Glaze. Yield: 1 loaf.

Honey Orange Glaze: In small saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons honey and 1 tablespoon orange juice. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, until mixture is warm.

CHRISTMAS BRAIDS 1 cup shortening 2 cup sugar 2 tsps. salt 1 tsp. crushed cardamon seed 1 tsp. cinnamon 2 cups milk, scalded 2 pkgs. active dry or compressed yeast 1 cup lukewarm water 2 eggs 8 cups flour 1 cup white raisins 1 cup shredded citron 1 cup sliced candied cherries Melted butter or margarine PUT shortening, sugar, salt, cardamon seed and cinnamon into a large bowl. Add milk. Cool to lukewarm and add yeast which has been softened in water. Next add beaten eggs and 4 cups flour. Mix well; add raisins, citron and cherries.

Beat in remaining flour. Place dough in a greased bowl, cover and let rise until doubled in bulk. Punch down and knead on lightly floured board. Shape into 2 braids, place on greased baking sheet and let rise again. Bake in moderate oven, 350 0 F, for 45 minutes. Brush with butter or margarine and cool on a rack. Yield: 2 loaves.

ALMOND CHRISTMAS WREATH Batter 2 heaped tbsps. plain flour 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. dried yeast 5 oz. warm milk, less 3 tbsps.

For the dough: 1 1 cups plain flour 1 tsp. salt 2 level tbsp. margarine 2 tsp. finely grated orange rind 1 lge. egg, beaten Filling 2 oz. ground almonds 2 level tbsp. sugar 1 lge. egg yolk Icing 3 cup icing sugar, sieved About 1 tbsp. orange juice 2 oz. red and green glace cherries, chopped Cooking Time: 45-50 minutes Oven: 375 0F BLEND flour, sugar, dried yeast and milk together in a bowl, set aside in a warm place until frothy -- about 15 minutes. Sieve flour and salt into a separate bowl and rub in margarine. Add orange rind. Add yeast mixture and beaten egg. Mix to a dough that leaves the sides of the bowl clean.

Turn on to a lightly-floured surface, knead about 10 minutes until dough feels Have a fruitful time in the kitchen this festive season From Page 47 Place in an oiled polythene bag or a bowl covered with a damp cloth. Leave to rise until dough has doubled in size. Remove and knead lightly on a floured surface for 1 minute. Divide in half. Roll each piece out to a rectangle 12 x 5 ins.

Blend almonds and sugar together, bind with egg yolk to make marzipan.

Divide in half. Dust working surface with a little sieved icing sugar and roll out marzipan to two rectangles a little smaller than the dough. Place on top of dough. Roll up lengthwise and seal edge of dough. Place the two rolls on a greased and floured baked tray, form into a circle and twist the ends together. Replace inside the polythene bag or cover with a damp cloth. Leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in size. Bake in a moderately hot oven for 45-50 minutes or until golden. Remove from oven and cool on a wire rack.

Glaze: Stir enough orange juice into the icing sugar to give a thick, flowing consistency. Spoon over the wreath and decorate with glace m cherries.

SWISS BIRNBROT Preparation and cooking time: 5 1 hours 1 pkg. yeast 1 cup plus 1 tsp. sugar 5 cup lukewarm water 1 cup plus 1 tbsp. butter or margarine 2 1 cups flour 1 tsp. salt 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp. milk (for glaze) Filling 1 cup water 1 1 cups dried pears, coarsely chopped 2 cup stoned, dried prunes, coarsely chopped 1 cup raisins juice of 1 lemon 1 cup walnuts, chopped 2 tbsp. sugar 2 tbsp. kirsch Grated rind of 1 lemon 1 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 1 tbsp. dry red wine CRUMBLE yeast into a small mixing bowl and mash in 1 teaspoon of the sugar with a kitchen fork. Add 2 tablespoons of the water and cream yeast and water together. Set bowl aside in a warm, draUght-free place for 15 to 20 minutes, or until yeast mixture has risen, is puffed up and frothy.

Meanwhile, pour remaining water into a small saucepan and add 1 cup of the butter or margarine. Place pan over moderate heat and stir to melt butter or margarine. Remove From heat, set aside to cool slightly.

Sift flour, salt and remaining sugar into a large, warmed mixing bowl, making a well in the centre. Pour in yeast and water mixtures plus egg. Using your fingers or a spatula, gradually draw the flour into the liquid. Continue mixing until all the flour is incorporated and dough comes away from sides of the bowl.

Turn dough out on to a lightly-floured surface, knead for 10 minutes, re-flouring the surface if the dough becomes sticky. It should be smooth and elastic.

Rinse, thoroughly dry and lightly grease the large mixing bowl. Shape dough into a ball and return it to the bowl. Cover with a cloth and place in a a warm, draught-free place for 1 to 1 1 hours, or until dough has doubled in bulk.

While dough is rising, prepare the filling: In a small saucepan, bring water to a boil.

Add pears, prunes, raisins and lemon juice, reduce heat to low. Stirring frequently, simmer for 10 minutes, or until fruit is tender and can be mashed easily with the back of a spoon.

Drain thoroughly, then pure me in a blender or food processor. Then stir walnuts, sugar, kirsch, grated lemon rind, cinnamon and nutmeg into the pure m e.

When ingredients are well mixed, stir in wine a little at a time.

Pure me should be very thick, so add the wine with caution.

Grease a large baking sheet with remaining tablespoon of butter or margarine.

Set aside. Lightly dust an 18-inch square piece of greaseproof or waxed paper with flour. Punch dough to get rid of air pockets. Transfer it to the paper.

Knead dough lightly and roll it out into a square about 1 -inch thick.

With a palette knife, spread filling over the dough, covering it smoothly to within 1 inch of its edges. Fold edges over the filling and roll up the dough like a Swiss jelly roll, using the paper to lift the dough.

Transfer roll to the greased baking sheet and lightly prick the surface all over with a fork. Put the roll in a warm place to rise for about 1 hour.

Pre-heat oven to fairly hot (400 0 F).

Brush the top, sides and ends of the roll with the egg-and-milk mixture.

Place the baking sheet in the middle of the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Then reduce oven temperature to moderate (350 0F) and continue baking for a further 50 minutes, or until the crust of the bread is golden and crisp. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Yield: one 2-lb. loaf.

Use your loaf to delight your Christmas callers From Page 48 CHRISTMAS BREAD A large, dark loaf with an unusual flavour, Christmas Bread is an old traditional Swedish recipe.

The bread is served at lunch on the day before Christmas, and is usually decorated with softened unsalted butter piped on top in a decorative pattern.

Christmas Bread is particularly delicious with butter and cheese or honey.

Preparation and cooking time: 4 hours 1 pkge. fresh yeast 1 tsp. brown sugar 2 tbsps. lukewarm water 2 1 cups stout or dark brown ale 1 cup plus 1 tbsp. butter or margarine 6 cups rye flour 3 cups flour 1 tsp. salt 1 cup molasses grated rind of 4 oranges 2 tbsps. aniseed, crushed Glaze 1 tbsp. molasses mixed with 3 tbsps. hot water CRUMBLE yeast into a small mixing bowl and mash in sugar with a fork. Add water, cream yeast and water together. Set the bowl aside in a warm, draught-free place for 15 to 20 minutes, or until yeast mixture has risen and is puffed up and frothy.

Meanwhile, in a medium-sized saucepan, warm stout or ale over low heat. Add 1 cup of the butter or margarine, heat mixture 2 to 3 minutes or until it is just lukewarm and butter/margarine has melted. Remove from heat.

Sift flour and salt into a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in the yeast and stout mixtures, molasses, orange rind and aniseed.

Using your fingers or a spatula, gradually draw the flour into the liquid.

Continue mixing until all flour is incorporated and dough comes away from the sides of the bowl.

Turn dough out on to a lightly floured board and knead it for 5 minutes, reflouring surface if dough is sticky. It should be elastic and smooth. Rinse, thoroughly dry and lightly grease large mixing bowl.

Form dough into a ball and return it to the bowl. Cover bowl with a clean cloth, set aside in a warm, draught-free place for 1 1 to 2 hours, or until dough has risen and almost doubled in bulk.

Lightly grease three baking sheets with remaining tablespoon of butter/margarine. Set aside.

Turn risen dough out onto a lightly floured surface, knead for 10 minutes.

Divide dough into three equal pieces and shape each piece into a long loaf, slightly shorter than the baking sheets.

Transfer loaves to baking sheets and cover with clean cloths. Return to a warm place for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until loaves have risen and expanded across the sheets. Pre-heat oven to a very cool 250 0 F.

Uncover loaves, prick them all over with a fork. Place baking sheets in oven and bake for 20 minutes. Remove loaves and brush with molasses and water glaze. Return loaves to oven, bake a further 20 minutes.

After removing loaves from oven, tip them off the baking sheets and rap the undersides with your knuckles. If they sound hollow, like a drum, they are cooked. If not, return loaves to oven and bake a further 10 to 15 minutes.

Cool loaves on a wire rack. Yield: 3 1-lb. loaves.